Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

selling for a mate,

r33 rb25 gearbox from a completely standard car he wrecked 104xxxkms on the clock $900 o.n.o

r34 2dr doors complete, motors glass $180 each

34 door trims $45 each

34 tail lights $150

boot lid with gtt spoiler $150

34 radiator $80

34 rear bar $150

34 bonnett $250

all parts from a black 2dr

may have other parts for 34 so ask if u need somthing

pm or text me on 0415 23 23 97, located in mansfield pk south australia.

Stripped my interior/boot and air con in the 32 (2dr). Have literally a pile of stuff here. Make an offer :)

Items:

All aircon gear, heater core, fans, under dash pieces. climate control unit, stereo side brackets, also back seats, a set of floor mats, boot trims, door cards, hicas, random bits.

Item Condition:

condition variable, most are good though

Contact Details:

sms - 0421666424

Price and price conditions:

make an offer on all parts, first in gets them, otherwise they're going in the bin

Edited by Sammy B

Items:

Item 1 - Front Strut Brace Cusco OS Type Suit R33

Item 2 - Standard RB25DET S2 Injectors On Rail

Item Condition:

Item 1 - Very Good Condition

Item 2 - Very Good Condition

Reason For Sale

Items No Longer Needed Bcoz Of Engine Build Up So Parts Have Been Upgraded To Suit New Setup PM For Pictures

Contact Details:

Call Or Sms Me On 0401409575

Price and price conditions:

Item 1 - $120ono

Item 2 - $120ono

Edited by R334door(s2)

33GTR Gearbox

Mint Condition

To save the bullshit $800 FIRM

  • Therefore: no CRUNCHY CRUNCHY or GRINDY GRINDY!
  • Takes push type clutch
  • Not sure where shifter is
  • Includes front drive shaft free!

Pick up in Glynde 0413739644

hey guys im after a cheap track car to get started down there,

preferably a s13 or a 180, ca18det or sr20det. (maybe r31) but show me what ya got anyway

price range im looking at is 2k to 4k

car does not have to be road rego'd but id much prefer the car to be rego'd so i can get to work after i sell my car :D

cheers fellas! just throw us a hola n show me what ya got, cheers blokes

20 inch by 9" and 10" Moven GR5 staggered wheels and tyres, stretched tyres. Too wide for sedans.

Fronts are:

20x9, +40mm offset

Achilles 225-35-20 tyres (stretch fitment)

70% tread remaining

Rears are:

20x10, +20mm offset

Nexxen 245-35-20 tyres (stretch fitment)

50% tread remaining

These alloys have about 1 inch more dish than the fronts.

5x114.3 stud pattern, HAMANN centre caps

Cost $4000 brand new, want $1500 firm... or will consider swap for something similar looking with less offset (not interested in tempe bling or commodore style wheels thanks)

1341jd8_20.jpeg

Edited by Trick V35

Got full set of stock rotors, still got fair bit of meat on them, front more so than rears and bendix ultimates to go all round also with meat left.

Good for track day backups etc.

$70 ono need them gone

Pm me

Got full set of stock rotors, still got fair bit of meat on them, front more so than rears and bendix ultimates to go all round also with meat left.

Good for track day backups etc.

$70 ono need them gone

Pm me

what are they from? may be keen

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...