Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am selling my video arcade machine. Will take some pics tonight. Is an upright 2 player machine with good quality screen (was replaced about 2 years ago). Machine is ex-"Fun and Games Leisure Centre" machine so is a tad knocked about, but nothing major and works 100%. Asking $400. Awesome fun in any games room/under a verandah, and you can buy pretty much any arcade game under the sun for it off Ebay or through various game vendors about the place. Or you can buy a $300-$500 multi-game jamma setup off Ebay which has like 40 games on them including classics like Galaga, Frogger, 1942/1943, Space Invaders, Pacman, etc etc. Or if you are tech skilled you could put a Mame PC box in it and run any game you want.

Also have 3 jamma games for sale on Ebay for anyone thinking about buying the machine, or for anyone that has one already. Only a few days left on these auctions.

Ultimate Mortal Kombat 3 (Ebay link)

Street Fighter vs Xmen (Ebay link)

Double Dragon (Ebay link)

Item: Executive Style Office Desk (Beach Colour) ~ RRP - $350

Width 180cm

Depth 90cm

Height 70cm

Item Condition: VG Condition

Location: SA, Western Suburbs

Price: $125ono

Contact: PM

bigdesk.jpg

Heyas

I have several things for sale:

1. Marshall JMP-1 guitar Pre-amp. Less than 100 hours actual power on use. paid $1800 5 years ago. Asking $1400...

2. Holden VN Commodore Series 2 1989 Executive Auto 3.8lt, White. $1500 Not Neg. 150,000 km on engine (genuine). $1500 worth of bushes and servicing done within last 6 months. Needs new rear tyres ($160) and steering rack ($550) as well as registration to be a good daily driver. Car has panel damage on Front right side panel, Bonnet has dents, and there is some rear impact damage to the right rear. (Car was stolen and cosmetically damaged) I've done 20,000km with this car, replaced the fuel pump, ecu, exhaust, torque converter & the usual filters and wheel alignments etc. Interior is in good condition.

3. R31 GTS-X rear spoiler. I never got to fit this to my old R31 before it was written off. Paid $200 for it, asking $100 as is. Color dark blue.

4. A single Auscar 15" Mag w/ tyre, 4 spoke configuration. A leftover from my r31, free to whoever wants it.

PM me if interested......

Thanks

-Ben

Hey guys i have a few things for sale

First item - Brand New HKS timing Belt, bought it for my car ages ago because i thought i needed to change the timing belt but when i went to change it i found the belt had already been changed so its been sitting around doing nothing. Will work on RB20/25/26

Asking $170

Second item - I have a very very very rage HKS gauge insert for a R32 now this goes inside the glove box and can hold 2 gauges (both 52mm and 60mm) and has other holes for TT's EBC's etc, bought this hoping it would fit my r33 because ive been hunting for one of these for about 8 months now but it didnt fit.... (Gauges in pic NOT included)

Asking $150

Third item - I have two Apexi EL gauges for sale one being boost and the second one being exhaust temp, for these to work you will need to get the control unit and the senders

Asking $150 for both

Fourth Item - Stock airbox and snorkel for an R33, good condition comes with filter

Asking $60

Last item - Stock FPR for an r33 good condition

Asking $20

Reason for selling all this gear is to get some $$$ together to get my car back on the road

post-33378-1189931343_thumb.jpg

post-33378-1189931517_thumb.jpg

Edited by /2on

Item: Marshall MG15DFX guitar amp, 15 watts, digital effects

Item Condition: Used for about a year. looks and plays like new.

Location: Sa, Western Suburbs

Price: $200

Contact: 0407328436 , PM , [email protected]

*AND*

Item: Ibanez RG170DX Electric Guitar

Item Condition: Used, has one small scratch on the bottom of guitar (wouldn't see unless pointed out)

Location: as above

Price: $300 due to scratch.. plays brilliantly

Contact: 0407328436 , PM , [email protected]

Items:

Blitz Blow off valve on a R33 pipe

Item Condition:

good condition

Extra Info:

bought from a member on SAU, havent been used since, no longer needed

Contact Details:

PM me on here, or on [email protected]

Price and price conditions:

$110 or trade for a R33 sidies of some sort

for sale1 auto trans suit r 32 comes with shifter and tourqe converter

done 70.000 ks is in good condition $ 60 bucks cheap cheap cheap need shed space must go will swap for something intresting like a turbosmart boost controller ect ect cheers dean

Edited by mid life crisis

Pair of black OBX reclining racing seats

Brand new...one has been taken out of the plastic, other still in plastic

Paid $760 for them....please someone take them off my hands....taking offers from $300!

PM for details

1.jpg2.jpg

Edited by Kroozin
  • 2 weeks later...

12 volt 50 watt HID kits.

to start with im just selling H1 as they suit the high beams of r33, and most 4x4 spotlights etc, but if you want a different style let me know and i can get you a price.

kits come with 2 globes, 2 ballasts and wiring kit and are the brightest kits available on the market at present.

being 50 watts there approx 1.5 times brighter then 35 watt hid's and approx 5 times more lumen output then your standard halogen globes.

they come with a 18 month warranty

usual price $375 + delivery

SAU price $325 with free delivery in SA

these pics are of the kit installed on my quad with some old shitty spotlights that are only 5 inches in diameter.

the light output is incredible.

contact via pm if interested.

cheers

Darren

post-24852-1191493127_thumb.jpg

post-24852-1191493147_thumb.jpg

Items:

Trust PE2 Catback R33 GTS-T

Item Condition: :)

*As New* Lil over a month old, paid $950 including fitting

Extra Info:

Too quiet for my liking, want to purchase sumthin like Blitz Nur Spec instead

Contact Details:

Please contact Damian on 0404 835 617

Price and price conditions:

Can't really think of a price so offers can be made as long as reasonable, this is ideal for those lookin for performance without unwanted attention. Tweaked @Exhaust Technology today, mid muffler was removed but Marky has kept it

;)

Items:

S15 Carbon Fibre Bonnet

Item Condition:

Excellent condition, painted black

Extra Info:

exactly the same design as this one http://www.carmate.com/product_details.php...R&p_id=8416

Contact Details:

0400044196 or PM me

Price and price conditions:

750 ono

Edited by AFTDRK

Items:

1992 Honda civic gl 1.5L

Item Condition:

158,xxx Kms, Major service done at 150,000, timing belt replaced recently, very economical, stock apart from stainless muffler and cd player.

Extra Info:

Very good condition

Contact Details:

PM me or call 0430 588 797

Price and price conditions:

$5000 Neg.

post-41213-1191928677_thumb.jpg

post-41213-1191928720_thumb.jpg

Edited by AFTDRK

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
×
×
  • Create New...