Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all :)

I own a 1998 Nissan Skyline R34 25GT with auto transmission, and whenever i tried to do wheel spin, it just can't get it up.

I have been told that traction control is on, so is there a way to turn it off? like there a switch i haven't seen? or yeah, someone please help me.

xx Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354391-turning-off-traction-control-on-r34/
Share on other sites

imag0083v.th.jpg

Should be a on/off switch by your left knee under the steering wheel. Pic is from my Manual 2000 GTT, im assuming the auto is no different.

yeah i have that switch, when i flick it, it comes up saying 'snow', is that the same as yours?

There might be a fuse box that can access and pull out the fuse for traction control..? Try losing traction at a wet parking lot by making slow doughnuts, I think a light should blink in the dash to indicate that the traction control is working/not working.

There might be a fuse box that can access and pull out the fuse for traction control..? Try losing traction at a wet parking lot by making slow doughnuts, I think a light should blink in the dash to indicate that the traction control is working/not working.

oh yeah i guess i could try pull out the fuse for traction control. i just thought there was a switch like other cars, may be wrong tho.

On R34s traction control is organized by modulating secondary throttle plate inside the throttle body. Look at your engine. Locate throttle body. There is no secondary plate actuator in there - none of N/A R34 have them from factory. Hence there is no traction control.

On R34s traction control is organized by modulating secondary throttle plate inside the throttle body. Look at your engine. Locate throttle body. There is no secondary plate actuator in there - none of N/A R34 have them from factory. Hence there is no traction control.

ohhh thanks, i'll give that a look and see what i can do. :)

Yep, thought NA R34's didn't have traction control, what on earth would they need it for? This thread is a perfect example for why they would never need it. The OP is TRYING to get wheel spin and can not achieve it.

Yep, thought NA R34's didn't have traction control, what on earth would they need it for? This thread is a perfect example for why they would never need it. The OP is TRYING to get wheel spin and can not achieve it.

well that sucks, i would have been nice if i could get wheel spin, maybe not then :P

Maybe you should try to induce some wheelspin using tallspeed of your auto box? press both pedals, it should rev up to ~2000 or 2500, then release brake pedal. If that does not help, then either you'll have to live with no wheelspin or put on some narrow tires or add ridiculous amount of camber to the back.

Note that stallstart heats up ATF pretty fast, so don't hold both pedals for a long time and don't repeat this exercise very often.

Added: according to factory manual, stall speed for RB25DE is 2350-2550 rpm. FSM does not recommend holding throttle pedal for longer than 5 seconds and also says to press throttle gradually. It also says to release throttle as soon as stall speed is reached, but you should release brake pedal instead and floor your throttle :P

Edited by Legionnaire

go to a parking lot

right/left hand down full lock

floor it and see if the orange T/C / SLIP blinks in the middle of the dash?

what you mean by 'right/left hand down full lock'

and what if T/C or SLIP comes up?

You won't see it, as R34 N/A's do not have traction control. At all, period. It just doesn't exist man.. I.E it is always off.

ohhh okay, thanks man :)

thats all i wanted to know

  • 2 years later...

i have a 34 GT-4 (the non turbo 4 wheel drive model) and im wondering why i have a TC button on my dash if i dont have TC? i dont have the on off switch so im just guessing that they made the same cluster for all manual non turbo models but why would they take the turbo gage off and leave the TC on?? im confused

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...