Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

im just wondering is the R34 gtr a permanently AWD or is it like the R32 where as once traction is lost the power is then split 40/60?

and if so is there any way to control this as by making it either RWD permanently AWD and then run stock?

im sure this has been threaded before but couldn't find the relevant information

  • Nope 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355002-r34-gtr-awd/
Share on other sites

R32 runs 100% to the rear then splits up to 50% to the front when needed.

R33 and R34 run 95% rear 5% front, the splits up to 50% to the front when needed.

There is a procedure in the workshop manual for putting in to RWD (in the 33GTR manual, I use the same process on my Stagea).

The manual states either drop the front prop shaft OR, disconnect the airbleed plug (inside the drivers kick panel), start car and push brake pedal 5 times, 4WD light starts flashing to tell you you're in RWD mode.

Have a good search, I have posted this up quite a few times and regardless of what anyone says, myself and others over here have PROVEN that it works.

It works so well that I've actually put a switch in my centre console and drive around every day in RWD.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355002-r34-gtr-awd/#findComment-5685517
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Thanks for that post #@bubba!

I have the opposite problem... my WGNC34 Series 2 maunal, AWD stagea got stolen. The 4WD light, HICAS and ABS lights were on when I got it back. I have replaced the 4x 30A fuses in the engine bay and got the HICAS and ABS back straight away. The 4WD light stays solidly on...

How do i do the opposite of what you posted above? What is the airbleed in the kickpanel?

Cheers,

Mely

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355002-r34-gtr-awd/#findComment-6911339
Share on other sites

R32 runs 100% to the rear then splits up to 50% to the front when needed.

R33 and R34 run 95% rear 5% front, the splits up to 50% to the front when needed.

There is a procedure in the workshop manual for putting in to RWD (in the 33GTR manual, I use the same process on my Stagea).

The manual states either drop the front prop shaft OR, disconnect the airbleed plug (inside the drivers kick panel), start car and push brake pedal 5 times, 4WD light starts flashing to tell you you're in RWD mode.

Have a good search, I have posted this up quite a few times and regardless of what anyone says, myself and others over here have PROVEN that it works.

It works so well that I've actually put a switch in my centre console and drive around every day in RWD.

the airbleed plug method works only for the r33 gtr though or am i mistaken? ive heard the only way for the r34 was pretty much disconnect the front prop shaft. On a slightly random note i wished my mates read up on this forum here and there so they know how the attessa works, ive had a mate whos an apprentice mechanic who said if you keep putting the r32 in rwd mode you screw up the transfer case and another who said the attesa in the r32 is 60/40 R/F 24/7 awd mode. 2nd part abt the 60/40 i know is bs without an aftermarket controller but they seem to know more abt my own car then myself lol, however the transfer case part, ive heard ppl said it doesnt damage the t-case but if som1 more knowledgeable could verify for the sake of it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355002-r34-gtr-awd/#findComment-6916859
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...