Jump to content
SAU Community

What To Use For Drift Handbrake Button?

ausdrift
 Share

Recommended Posts

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Ive seen alot of drift buttons for silvias, etc but not for skylines. Are they available or is there a reason why not. What should I do about handbrake drift button for my R33?

thanks

Go hydraulic handbrake, you'll never look back

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Save ur money and dont buy a drift button

Pull the cover off the handle of the handbrake lever. Get a small screw driver and pry out The 2 tabs holding the spring up. Doing this will release the button and then u have a drift handbrake.

Then when ever u want the button to lock just pull the button out with ur fingers

ausdrift Experienced

ausdrift

Posted
  • Author
Posted

DVS32R's way seems a bit of a pain, just in that I drive the car far too often on the road Vs drifting, so i might just do the old 10c piece taped on trick

. I know Cusco has a handle and button replacement kit, but that goes for almost $100 and doesnt look that great either. Apparently normal ones dont really fit. Anyone know of products that do?

ausdrift Experienced

ausdrift

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

(Why not just tape the button "IN" with duct tape. When you are finished drifting, remove the tape, and you have a normal handbrake.

)

that would be the afore mentioned 10c piece trick

Edited by ausdrift
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

(Why not just tape the button "IN" with duct tape. When you are finished drifting, remove the tape, and you have a normal handbrake.

)

that would be the afore mentioned 10c piece trick

I just don't understand what you want. You clearly don't want the normal drift button that is available at the imports parts stores. You don't want to modify your standard handbrake which is the exact same thing as the aftermarket button attachment except it's free. You don't want to spend $100 on the handle and button replacement from cusco. The tape doesn't tickle your fancy....

So there is no pleasing you then?

post-10554-0-74952300-1298843089_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

Funny enough there are these fantastic inventions called thumbs.

You know, keep the thumb on the button as you pull it up, the lever will go down when you release it.

Too difficult? Then try this:

Push the button in and hold it with duct tape (or whatever your preferred method).

Drill a hole through the handle into the button (drom the top). Hole should be big enough to allow you to put a screw into the hole - to act as a dowel

Keep screw in glovebox (or on a piece of string attached to the handbrake lever)

When you want to drift, push in the button and insert screw to hold the button in there. Note screw should be tight enough int eh hole that it will hold itself in place, but generally the button spring will hold anything you put in there in place.

I've had this mod on two of my forest drift cars (rally cars to normal people) and it works fine.

Yes, the hyd handbrake works well, but if your stock handbrake is up to the task, then there's no reason not to use it.

ausdrift Experienced

ausdrift

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Elite Racing - The normal drift button from stores isnt available for Skylines otherwise I would snap it up, the tape fix is just a bit too povo for any kind of perminant solution and the Cusco part is ugly.

So yeah, still looking for a solution

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

Elite Racing - The normal drift button from stores isnt available for Skylines otherwise I would snap it up, the tape fix is just a bit too povo for any kind of perminant solution and the Cusco part is ugly.

So yeah, still looking for a solution

Too pov? For drifting? What the fuck. The motorsport second only to destruction derby in terms of absolute buckets of shit being driven into the ground...

Drifting is judged on angle, entry speed and acrobatics - not how cool your interior looks. Focus on the important stuff!

There is no making you happy.

SKITTLES Experienced

SKITTLES

Posted
Posted

Push the button in and hold it with duct tape (or whatever your preferred method).

Drill a hole through the handle into the button (drom the top). Hole should be big enough to allow you to put a screw into the hole - to act as a dowel

Keep screw in glovebox (or on a piece of string attached to the handbrake lever)

When you want to drift, push in the button and insert screw to hold the button in there. Note screw should be tight enough int eh hole that it will hold itself in place, but generally the button spring will hold anything you put in there in place.

There's your cheap and easy drift button.

Stop being such a princess.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • GTSBoy
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • dbm7
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...