Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car: '95 GTR R33 V-Spec, RB26DETT

Miles: 24,000

Current Condition: Bone Stock

Have ordered most of the STD goodies to prepare for this buildup:

* Nismo TwinPlate

* PFC w/Commander & Datalogit

* Fuel Rail, Pump, Lines

* HKS Type R Intercooler

* 264 Cams, Cam gears, etc

etc, etc, etc...

Just finished my RX7 single project, Large Street Port 13b w/Garrett GT35/40, put down 420rwhp @ 16psi (94 Octane pump) and just over 500rwhp @ 22psi (100 Octane). Get excellent spool for my driving habits, starts boosting by 3800rpm, full boost by 4500 - 4800rpm & 9000rpm redline.

Would like to have similar spool and performance caracteristics on the GTR and looking for insight on a single turbo choice for it. The car will be 98% street driven, with a current power goal of 600awhp (US Dynojet). Am currently looking at the Garrett GT40R or GT42R. Will the GT40R take me to 600awhp? Are there other singles I should be considering?

Thanks for your expertise, opinions and advice!

K

Just my personal opinion, having driven both big single and twin high mount versions, I much prefer twin terbs for the street. They tend to be more responsive and give a broader torque curve.

Also, there is no sound on earth like a GTR with two large highmounts spooling up!

my personal opinion , sorry to say this to you GAV but ive also had both twin turbo and single turbo set up in my gtr's and i can honestly tell you that there is no beter feeling, then driving a gtr with single conversion, (eg t78 or t88) waiting for the boost to kick in and hearing the external wastegate open up will serioulsy demolish any thoughts of twin turbo set up being beter, sorry no offence its just my 5 cents.

HKS T04r cut back, or the new HKS T04z.

Both support around 600hp, although the T04z is newer and is supposed to spool up quicker due to the holes drilled in the compressor cover.

Trust T-78 either 33, or 34D.

thats for high mount single.

However, it would be very hard to achieve (on an un-stroked RB26) 600hp and have full boost hit by 4500rpm. thats with any turbo.

I know two people who have made 320rwkw on thier R33 GTR's with HKS 2530's. These are a low mount bolt on application.

They have a great spool and would hit full boost around 4500rpm.

how much does 320 rwkw equate to in HP?

if u r aiming for 600ps or less then the best option would be to go 2 lowmount turbos ..maybe twin trust t51z's or twin hks 2540's or gt-rs's ..that way it will give the best response and torque ..however if u want to go down the single turbo path ..maybe a to4z cutback ..or trust t78 or even a t67 for good response ...there are other things we need to know like are u going to rebuild the engine and gearbox options!

nocab72,

according to Ray Hall's turbo match app, it seems that with a rev limit of 9000rpm and 26psi on an RB26, you will require a GT42 with A/R 1.22 exhaust housing which would give you ~700bhp and 64lb/min worth of air flow.

http://www.turbofast.com.au/TFmatch.html

yeah, it sounds all good and sweet but then again, i'm not too sure how this turbo would be for a street GTR, i would dare say that it would be quite laggy down low but with a monstrous top end power band.

Hi nocab72, my suggestion would be a Garrett GT35R, good for 700 bhp less around 60 hp for losses on a 4wd hub dyno. However I wouldn't be aiming for that sort of power on standard RB26 internals, particularly pistons and conrod bolts.

As for spool up, being a 3.9 litre 6 cylinder 2 stroke, 13B rotaries have a lot of exhaust gas flow. If you want that sort of boost build out of an RB26, I would suggest around 2.7 litres with 9 to 1 compression ratio, porting and a good dose of ceramic coating.

Hope that is of some help.

Hi Harry, looks awesome. What else have you done, other than 2.8 litres of course?

Full spec here

PS; Why di they stop the run at 7,000 rpm?

run went to 7500rpm - chart updated now (my mistake) - limited as no need to run further - engine was set up for max torque on or around 4000rpm onwards

Nice graph there Harry, how is the car to drive? Happy with it?

Excellent!!! and v happy so far - havent really had a chance to drive it in anger yet - still a bit wet here :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
×
×
  • Create New...