Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bobby, is john going to make a support for the turbo/manifold?

is he expecting any problems form the manifold warping?

Hi,

No need to support the manifold at all.

Well once the manifold is on the car and running i doubt if we have any problems his engineered it well enough to keep away from any problems.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

The head is at Wilkins engineering to drill the holes. This will help remove air locks above the combustion chamber in the head. Once its done i will port some pics of the work.

I have done some wiring on the car, i have installed pressure and temp sensors before and after cooler using 4 core tefzel wire.

post-49633-0-61686900-1318850714_thumb.jpg

post-49633-0-87755600-1318850740_thumb.jpg

Hey Bobby, are you going to come to SAU Nationals and bring along that Z-Tune of yours? Im sure everyone would love to see it there.

Hey Ian, Sorry just have to much work on atm. You are more then welcome to see John on the way back as we are 5 min off the freeway.

So who is doing the head porting and assembly Bobby?

Cleaning of the ports have been already done, no porting required, and i have posted pics of ports. This was done by John Skola.

Motor assembly will be done by Trevor ( Johns Close friend) . I sent the head to Wilkin's engineering to drill the head to relief airlocks, and he also linished the throttle body shafts. Ill be picking it up tomorrow so ill post some new pics.

Graeme Wilkins and John Skola worked together many years ago on race cars. This is why John gave me the green light for Graeme to do some work for me as John does not know many people that are capable of doing the job correctly. Graeme is based in Seven hill on Stanton rd www.wilkinsengineering.com.au.

The head needed the holes drilled to relief air locks above the combustion chamber, the holes drilled are 3.5mm using a Mill and making sure you dont go drilling into the port or the headbolt holes.

While the head was there, Graeme has noted down many measurements of the work that John has carried out on the head. ie port shape port cleaning and final port size. So if you wanted your RB26 head ported in the same manner as mine (as i now john dont have the time to do it) you can always go and see Graeme to get the job done.

Also Graeme has milled the throttle body shafts, gave him one that John did and he copied them to all three. This will help increase the area in the throttle when opened fully for increased air flow.

post-49633-0-07214800-1319533642_thumb.jpg

post-49633-0-31439100-1319533689_thumb.jpg

post-49633-0-58962800-1319533734_thumb.jpg

post-49633-0-90722600-1319533787_thumb.jpg

Did you get the head on a flow bench?

+1 to Wilkins doing great work on heads

Yes the head has been flowed and sorry i dont have the figures as john has the file somewhere, once i find the file i will list it with the rest fo the calculations he has done. File is worth a mint !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...