Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bobby, is john going to make a support for the turbo/manifold?

is he expecting any problems form the manifold warping?

Hi,

No need to support the manifold at all.

Well once the manifold is on the car and running i doubt if we have any problems his engineered it well enough to keep away from any problems.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

The head is at Wilkins engineering to drill the holes. This will help remove air locks above the combustion chamber in the head. Once its done i will port some pics of the work.

I have done some wiring on the car, i have installed pressure and temp sensors before and after cooler using 4 core tefzel wire.

post-49633-0-61686900-1318850714_thumb.jpg

post-49633-0-87755600-1318850740_thumb.jpg

Hey Bobby, are you going to come to SAU Nationals and bring along that Z-Tune of yours? Im sure everyone would love to see it there.

Hey Ian, Sorry just have to much work on atm. You are more then welcome to see John on the way back as we are 5 min off the freeway.

So who is doing the head porting and assembly Bobby?

Cleaning of the ports have been already done, no porting required, and i have posted pics of ports. This was done by John Skola.

Motor assembly will be done by Trevor ( Johns Close friend) . I sent the head to Wilkin's engineering to drill the head to relief airlocks, and he also linished the throttle body shafts. Ill be picking it up tomorrow so ill post some new pics.

Graeme Wilkins and John Skola worked together many years ago on race cars. This is why John gave me the green light for Graeme to do some work for me as John does not know many people that are capable of doing the job correctly. Graeme is based in Seven hill on Stanton rd www.wilkinsengineering.com.au.

The head needed the holes drilled to relief air locks above the combustion chamber, the holes drilled are 3.5mm using a Mill and making sure you dont go drilling into the port or the headbolt holes.

While the head was there, Graeme has noted down many measurements of the work that John has carried out on the head. ie port shape port cleaning and final port size. So if you wanted your RB26 head ported in the same manner as mine (as i now john dont have the time to do it) you can always go and see Graeme to get the job done.

Also Graeme has milled the throttle body shafts, gave him one that John did and he copied them to all three. This will help increase the area in the throttle when opened fully for increased air flow.

post-49633-0-07214800-1319533642_thumb.jpg

post-49633-0-31439100-1319533689_thumb.jpg

post-49633-0-58962800-1319533734_thumb.jpg

post-49633-0-90722600-1319533787_thumb.jpg

Did you get the head on a flow bench?

+1 to Wilkins doing great work on heads

Yes the head has been flowed and sorry i dont have the figures as john has the file somewhere, once i find the file i will list it with the rest fo the calculations he has done. File is worth a mint !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...