Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, so the time has come for me to get new coils for my 20 as i still have the original ones >_<.

Was browsing through the fab section and saw a post on ls1 coils on a rb20, nothing was really discussed in detail so did a search and found some scattered info of people doing this and saying nothing but good things about them.

My question is who on here has done this on there rb? Was it an easy install?

I would really appreciate any info on this as I'm considering going this route as a full set (8) ls1 coils is roughly half the price of splitfires.

One massive pro to this setup is you can can your standard ignitor as the coils have them inbuilt, which seems really good as i'm sure the standard 20 odd year old ignitor would be the weakest link after upgrading to say some new splitfires.

Also having them mounted of the engine has to be better for a coil, not having all the heat go straight into the coil.

But can a standard ecu run them? They apparently can but there is stuff all info out there.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355885-ls1-coils-on-a-rb/
Share on other sites

The ignitor is just a high speed switch only in this case they are built into the coil assembly .

Some will say that returning to high tension leads is a backwards step in this day and age .

I reckon by the time you muck around with brackets leads wiring etc you may not have a lot to gain and it creates a bit of an eyesore .

Can you source good second hand std coils or explore ones off other RB twin cam engines ?

A .

I know OT but so much more to be gained from a 25 if you can manage it .

Why not go 26 ones as they are a bit newer? Or just get some yellow jackets or splitfires?

Avoid the red ones (won't put brand in for obvious reason) however they didn't last 24hrs

IMO yellow jackets are bang for buck and 200+ cheaper than splitfires and gave better results on my car

I use them along with 8/10 other rb fans I know.

They nurder the splitfire for reliability and throw a much fatter spark.

The better coil to use is the ls2 chevy truck coil. It will start bushfires in the next state. Can pick them up quite cheap off ebay too.

I read the diy but will the rb20 wiring be the same?

Basically I would go with the yellow jackets but how long have they been around for? No point buying a product that has a 2 year warranty when the company might not be around in a year or so. Not to mention theres stuff all info on where there made.

I'm going to see how much i can get ls2 coils for and go from there, no point if the setup is the same or more the splitfires. It looks promising though as the ls2 coils are meant to have a big spark.

Getting the car tuned and some other issues sorted and tuner told me that two of my coils are leaking to ground. Options:

1. repalce OEM ones with OEM ($$$)

2. aftermarket (not as much $$$ as above)

3. LS1 coils (that I ended up getting for free)

I think I will go with option 3... anyone got some decent photos of how they mounted them? Or what leads they used?

I use them along with 8/10 other rb fans I know.

They nurder the splitfire for reliability and throw a much fatter spark.

How did you find that out? Back to back, same tune, same plugs etc test on a dyno?

Bugger paying $200 each, the best of the 3 types (the LS2 Truck Coil-with the heat sink on the top) is only $24.75 each with $60 postage for all 6. So ~$209 all together. And these put out 120mA as opposed to 40mA for the base LS2 type. What do the factory coils put out?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/IGNITION-COIL-CADILLAC-GM-HUMMER-ISUZU-VEHICLES-UF262-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d2d7a3fedQQitemZ400194945005QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Edited by D_Stirls

Well I know why Nissan went straight coil on plug, there is f**k all room to mount the LS1 coils especially trying to have them neat and with equal length leads. Having a mate come round tomorrow to give me a hand.

I read the diy but will the rb20 wiring be the same?

Basically I would go with the yellow jackets but how long have they been around for? No point buying a product that has a 2 year warranty when the company might not be around in a year or so. Not to mention theres stuff all info on where there made.

I'm going to see how much i can get ls2 coils for and go from there, no point if the setup is the same or more the splitfires. It looks promising though as the ls2 coils are meant to have a big spark.

I think I have had my RB20 yellow jackets for around 2 years now... They are still holding more power/boost without any issues than I would imagine you will ever need with a RB20

Well I got a dummy bracket made up which should do the trick; now I need to sort out the wiring. Will get a photo up of them mounted this weekend, if it looks as neat as I hope I might even do a kit.

By the way does anyone know if you still use the OEM "noise suppressor condensor" on the power feed to the LS1 coils?

Edited by bigmikespec

So the ones listed on ebay in the us there not a genuine gm coil are they? Just figured if your gonna get them might as well get the real deal instead of a cheaper knockoff.

If they are genuine then f**k me there cheap, so much cheaper then any decent replacement coils, well worth the hassles of mounting and wiring.

Still cant decide on whether to run these of just get yellow jackets, kinda running out of time before my tune, so kinda need to make a decision asap >_<

One issus i have noticed is the dwell time on the coils, i'm guessing you'll need to adjust it via the ecu as it has to be set to around 5ms, not to sure what a standard rb coil's dwell time is?

Edited by eightsixboy

This is what I use when I want a good cheap COP coil

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FORD-FALCON-BA-BF-NEW-COIL-ORIGINAL-XR6-TURBO-4-0L-/190507883608?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5b279c58

They are just as strong as LS1 coils. Had no problems on a 2jz @30psi of boost with a 0.9mm gap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
×
×
  • Create New...