Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

this came to me from somebody in the fuel industry(no names or brands)

"What`s the benefit of higher octane?

Higher octane fuel has only one beneficial feature- it allows an engine to run at higher temperatures with more advanced ignition timing under higher levels of compression without detonating/knocking. higher octane fuel does NOT have more potential energy and will not make an engine perform better unless that engine is knocking. on modern engines with knock sensors, higher octane fuel may make the engine run better if the knock sensors are retarding the ignition timing, which hinders performance. high octane fuel does not burn cleaner, it does not clean your engine. it does not increase horsepower or torque(unless your engine is knocking), it does not smell better, it does not increase fuel economy(unless knocking)and it is not better for the environment. "

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35596-food-for-thought-octane/
Share on other sites

Don't some of the fuel co's use additives to the high octane fuel that "clean" the engine?

(Whatever that means!??!?!)

Not neccessarily to do with the RON/MON of the fuel... i.e. the fuel would be 98RON with or without it but they ONLY put the additives in on this premium fuel...

Adrian

yeah i was thinkig about that, the reason i posted was because of the money i wasted on octane booster, imean car car shot flames out the back of it but when i dynoed it one day and got less then normal i started looking at fuel maps and boost settings and everything except my fuel.

fuel co`s recomend to use the premium fuel in cars because it cleans out your motor but don`t by it because it will give you more power. who has dynoed there car to see a diff in premium and 95?? it is easy to show a 15KLW gain on the side of a bottle, but there are to many varibles to justify that gain. ,, wheather, temp, where the tests were done, or even which test was done first. these all come into play when you read off a dyno.

What sort of octane booster were you using? Some are pretty much useless...

I had one which actually does bump it up a few points (and actually claimed to guarantee that), but it was $20 or so for a little bottle that would do maybe 1/2 -> 1 tank. The others I looked at were very vague "gives increased performance, blah, blah" but no actually RON increase so was suspicious.

You're best off with avgas or toulene or the like though if you're serious.

To be honest, I switch readily between 95RON and 98RON depending on availability and what service station i turn up at, but notice no discernable difference to my cars smoothness or power.

i paid $20 for a bigger bottle i think it did 2-3 tanks

maybe the one u used increased the power another way. i would have no idea how but after doing some research on this i can`t see how octane could increase power.

The best octane booster for our usage is Toluene. There have been several threads on this. Add approx 5% to bring octane rating up just over 100. You qote reasons why it gives more power in your first post, if you reread it carefully. It will ONLY benefit if you tune the motor up to the new octane rating

Haven't tried it with the line but with my 99 SSS there's no way you could say either that it was lacking power on normal fuel (ie pulled timing) or that it didn't gain it from using high octane stuff.

Don't ask for technical explanations (or a dyno reading) but that's what I think.

The best octane booster for our usage is Toluene. There have been several threads on this. Add approx 5% to bring octane rating up just over 100. You qote reasons why it gives more power in your first post, if you reread it carefully.     It will ONLY benefit if you tune the motor up to the new octane rating

Can you just add the toulene to your regular fuel? it doesn't do any damage to seals or anything like that???

hi guys,

Believe it or not lower octane fuel is more voliatile than the higher octane. So using lower grade increases the chance you will get detonation before tdc and hence loose power, not convinced the octane booster's work but over here we always put 98 ron in when we can!!!!!

hi guys,

Believe it or not lower octane fuel is more voliatile than the higher octane. So using lower grade increases the chance you will get detonation before tdc and hence loose power, not convinced  the octane booster's work but over here we always put 98 ron in when we can!!!!!

That's the point we're making though? nobody wants knock, we want to be able to advance the timing a bit and run more boost without worrying about putting a hole in the top of a piston... i agree though, that the best thing is to just run the best fuel you can find and then maybe throw some booster into that, rather than running 95 octane and a ball of booster to try compensate.

What about methanol? what's the difference between using toluene and methanol?

I used (tolune) 10litres to a full tank. Not sure what that works out too but gave me an extra 70rwhp. With just normal bottle octane booster from Hardcore Racing gained 30+rwhp
Although your car isn't anywhere near 'stock' right?

WHen I first bought my 32 I wasnt aware of the difference between premium (95) & ultimate (98). I slapped it on the dyno and made 115rwkw. I was running 95 Premium.

I wasn't able to run any ignition advance to make more power as it was ever so slightly pinging. Slapped the 98 in advanced timing. Made a huge difference.

Guest INASNT

There was an octane booster test in last issue of zoom, and the most gain they got was around 6kw@wheels with 3 degrees extra timing.

If u want high octane run on some suncorp 104 which is about $4 a litre or go hardcore and run some C16. If u run C16 u will need to change plugs and o2 sensor frequently coz it burns them out

As mentioned by others, higher octane will allow you to tune "harder" and that is where the extra power comes from.

On the question of methanol, DO NOT try to run it on something that hasn't been tuned for it ESPECIALLY a turbo car, as the stoichiometric AIR:FUEL ratio for methanol is approximately 6.5:1 compared to approx 14.7:1 for pump fuel, which is why they run massive injectors and 5:1 AFRs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HyperGear. Just get a high flow of the stocker. Good, reliable, and should bolt on. Yes it will want things like a retune once done, so you need to factor this in to your spend too.
    • Hi. Iam looking for some "cheaper" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO. I do not want "big" power just better reliability than the stock turbo which is "fot now" good but is old and i do not think it has "easy" life. One the Skyline here running some "temu" china Turbo but i dont trust those... Thanks!  
    • Hi guys, Making some space/cleaning up. A whole heap of random OEM R33 GTR parts and other random bits and bobs. I will update this thread as I go. Parts are located in Moorebank NSW 2170. Pickup preferred but will post at buyers expense. Prices are negotiable. If they don’t sell it will go in the bin. Item 1: BOV return pipe. $40 Item 2: RB26 cam gears. $20 Item 3: R33 GTR torque split, oil temp, boost centre gauge. $100 Item 4: RB26 fuel rail x 2. $20 each Item 5: RB26 Recirc valves. $50 Item 6: OEM upper front arms. $20 Item 7: Royal Purple Max Gear 75w-140 1 quart/946 ml x 5. $50 each or 5 for $200. Item 8: OS Giken 80w-250 diff oil 1 litre. $25 Item 9 Eibach springs. ers-11-140-60-0140. $100 https://www.streetfx.com.au/eib140-60-0060-eibach-ers-140mm-length-x-60mm-id-coil-over-spring?_ga_campaignid=22235933977&_ga_adgroupid=180146800292&_ga_keyword=&_ga_device=m&_ga_target=pla-295238231169&_ga_locint=&_ga_locphy=9071723&_ga_matchtype=&_ga_network=g&_ga_device=m&_ga_placement=&_gcl_id=CjwKCAjwlt7GBhAvEiwAKal0cvkVE_hstv24cDiaICsIk1oznH9zAoJf3By6vR3Tpe7jmByqM6JFHBoCZYAQAvD_BwE&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22235933977&gbraid=0AAAAADPiTbo1xAuvnjIWWYnezivf-BUSY&gclid=CjwKCAjwlt7GBhAvEiwAKal0cvkVE_hstv24cDiaICsIk1oznH9zAoJf3By6vR3Tpe7jmByqM6JFHBoCZYAQAvD_BwE    
    • That's kind of what I was getting at saying you'd be here soon regarding length etc being able to add additional restriction.  My assumption (possible donkeys of you and mption) is that the length of hose to an oil cooler, and back, isn't going to be that huge of a loss. Typically you're talking about 1.5m of total length. And so far everyone in our world hasn't had issues with oil not being able to get to a cooler and back, it's more been, how the heck do we get the oil out of the head and back down to the bottom? I'd nearly hazard a guess the biggest issue people have with oil cooling and oil supply, is being able to get the heat out at the cooler itself (not enough air flow, too small of a cooler etc) Also, when people mount them wrong and make really awesome air traps so they've dramatically diminished the cooling capacity.
    • I will rebutt this and the preceding point from Dose....but without doing any calcs to demonstrate anything and without knowing that I am right or wrong. But... The flow capacity of a fluid transfer system is not limited by the smallest orifice or section of conduit in that system, unless it is drastically smaller than the rest of the system. OK, I use the word drastically perhaps with too much emphasis, but let's drill down on what I really mean. The flow capacity of the system is the result of the sum of the restrictions of the entire system. So, to make an extreme example, if you have a network with 3" pipe everywhere (and let's say a total length of only a few metres) and that 12mm ID restriction of the oil filter connection being the obvious restriction, then for any given amount of pressure available, the vast majority of all the pressure drop in the system is going to occur in the 12mm restriction. But.... increase the length of the 3" pipeline to, say 1000m, and suddenly the pipe pressure loss will likely add up to either be in the same order of magnitude, possibly even exceeding that of the 12mm restriction. Now the 12mm restriction starts to matter less. Translate this to the actual engine, actual oil cooler hose sizing, etc etc, and perhaps: The pressure loss caused by flowing through the narrow section (being the 12mm oil filter port, and perhaps any internal engine oil flow pathways associated with it) is a certain number. The pressure loss through, say, -12 hoses out to the cooler and back is negligible, but The pressure loss through -10 hoses out to the cooler, at the exact same length as the above, starts to become a decent fraction of the loss through the 12mm stuff at the filter port. Maybe even it starts to exceed it. I could actually do these calcs if I knew 1) how much oil was actually flowing in the line, 2) gave enough of a f**k to do things that I hate doing for work, voluntarily for a hypothetical discussion. Anyway - I reiterate. It's not the narrowest port that necessarily determines how much it can all flow. It is the sum. A long enough length of seemingly fat enough pipe can still cause more loss than a semmingly dominant small bore restriction.
×
×
  • Create New...