Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nah defo not trapped air in there.. have bled it properly til no bubbles coming out the bleed screw.

nothings changed either,.. and the problem has got worse over last few events so something is up

Get the gas test done on the coolant to confirm HG. It's the easiest way to rule it out.

With the problem getting progressively worse it seems pretty likely.

Running E85 is probably helping to keep your temps down as well....

Probably wouldn't hurt to under drive the water pump either.

Edited by badhairdave
  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I've had similar issues in the past with cheap radiators. My first one clogged up with shit and did the same as what you are describing.

Take the rad out, put a garden hose on one end and let it rip. If it flows fast, you have other problems, if it doesn't get a new rad. (Thanks to Trent for that)

done pressure test on radiator.. 15psi for 5 mins and no drop in pressure

comp tested with works ryco comp tester which does read lower then most

1: 90

2: 90

3: 90

4: 95

5: 95

6: 90

Shouldn't it read the same as most? If you have 90 compression, you have issues

Is it losing any water at all?

I had a headgasket issue last year, leaking into the cooling system it displaces the water and leaves you with air.. try getting it on dyno and watching the overflow tank when it hits boost. I did the same test you did by checking for leaks up to 20psi and it was fine while idling in the car park. Watch it come on boost though and suddenly the overflow tank starts bubbling violently.

If you haven't got a dyno to test on, just take the overflow pipe off the overflow tank and poke it outside the bonnet and go for a run. You'll soon see it go off like a pressure cooker.

Do you still have the factory oil cooler?

what are your oil temps doing?

I have the same issue with my CA, couldn't keep it cool even with a 150% thicker radiator (25mm R32 Vs' 10mm Standard CA). Once i fitted a oil cooler never had an issue again.

Mt theory is that the only way that the engine could get the heat out of the oil is through the coolant.

i have an aftermarket oil cooler (and still the OEM near the filter block) and oil temps reach 130 ish after hard laps.

not really losing water... it doesnt use it. it pushes it out the rad once boiling and doesnt suck it all back in.

i always thought that was typically an air leak ie pushes water out but sucks air back in, but you've had a pressure test. maybe the rad cap is the problem and letting water out but sucking air back in. HG as suspected might explain why the water is being displaced.

Edited by Scooby

You still havent answered the question as to what type/thickness FMIC youre running.

Have you made any effort to ensure all airflow actually travels through the rad ie sealing and cowling of the radiator to the rad support???? Same with the oil cooler?

Any type of cooler works 1000% better with ducting/cowling.

It appears the car is mostly used for drift??? You need to make the most of the little airflow you get...

Again a pressure test shows absolutely nothing about the cooling ability of the radiator.

sorry mate missed your post.

its a 400X300X76 core mounted right in front of the rad. reason for this was to run shorter cooler piping and have the cooler in a safer position then the tradiational fmic location.

i have made an alloy box section up also which directs aii the air coming in from the front bar thro the IC and rad.. the sides are blocked off so it is un able to go anywhere else.

183152_1764592067976_1034359196_1948264_812334_n.jpg

183608_10150098000211109_693631108_6607544_2048564_n.jpg

Well Snowy is running a triple pass PWR items ATM i believe. So far so good.

Looks like that front bar is smaller than the ducting?

Also what is on top where the rad support is? If there is no panel, all the air is gonna do is go that way as it'll look for least resistance.

Or simply go around the sides. Also how much room between I/C & Rad?

Perhaps just take a photo looking down onto it

What cooler is right @ the bottom of the I/C?

front bar and duct are a snug fit, same size. the sides are the same width as the rad.. air is forced thro the cooler and the rad. the IC is 5mm away from the radiator. no top panel. should probably make one up.

the little cooler at the bottom is a power steering cooler.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you like more modern stuff than the R series, you should check out a V37 400R, they are pretty mod friendly
    • Haha luckily we don't have emissions, inspections, or any laws against power adders here. They only thing they somewhat keep an eye out for are ridiculously loud exhausts. 
    • Just wanted to pop in an update on my setup. The CD swap has been great, I love the mazworks housing for the overall simplicity. I ended up sealing my trans tunnel with a thin sheet of aluminum reused some of the holes on the trans tunnel, and laid some window sealing EPS foam around the edges. Works great, really quieted things down and sealed up the car.  As for the power comment. Right now I am also running about 650whp. with the way the bell housing is attached to the face of the transmission I have zero doubts it would be fine, mainly because the input shaft and main shaft bearings are seated into the bell housing adapter. This means the load is NOT on the bolts to maintain the power, rather into he casing of the bell housing; Yes the bolts are doing some work there, but with both shafts locked in zero worries.  End of the day, the Mazworks solution is the easiest and safest. no need to take your trans to a shop to get milled perfectly, it fits with minimal clearancing, and you can use all your existing clutch and flywheel.  Driving wise the CD has been great compared to the big box, I'll probably swap my final drive at some point. The serial 9 shifter is gooooood, my only qualm is how tight it is, it takes a fair bit to get use to, 5th and 6th are a bit eh/hard to find at times, but maybe I need re-adjusting, and I think my clutch master is very tired and needs a rebuild. 
    • If you are keen, have a look at my build thread. Car is for sale for the right money or straight swap for a F80 M3 LCI.
    • Welcome mate.  No point in over thinking it, buying any one of those cars you mentioned is not a smart or logical choice with the availability of many "better" (re price to performance) cars available to you.  The heart wants what the heart wants, buy whatever it leads you too.
×
×
  • Create New...