Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nah defo not trapped air in there.. have bled it properly til no bubbles coming out the bleed screw.

nothings changed either,.. and the problem has got worse over last few events so something is up

Get the gas test done on the coolant to confirm HG. It's the easiest way to rule it out.

With the problem getting progressively worse it seems pretty likely.

Running E85 is probably helping to keep your temps down as well....

Probably wouldn't hurt to under drive the water pump either.

Edited by badhairdave
  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I've had similar issues in the past with cheap radiators. My first one clogged up with shit and did the same as what you are describing.

Take the rad out, put a garden hose on one end and let it rip. If it flows fast, you have other problems, if it doesn't get a new rad. (Thanks to Trent for that)

done pressure test on radiator.. 15psi for 5 mins and no drop in pressure

comp tested with works ryco comp tester which does read lower then most

1: 90

2: 90

3: 90

4: 95

5: 95

6: 90

Shouldn't it read the same as most? If you have 90 compression, you have issues

Is it losing any water at all?

I had a headgasket issue last year, leaking into the cooling system it displaces the water and leaves you with air.. try getting it on dyno and watching the overflow tank when it hits boost. I did the same test you did by checking for leaks up to 20psi and it was fine while idling in the car park. Watch it come on boost though and suddenly the overflow tank starts bubbling violently.

If you haven't got a dyno to test on, just take the overflow pipe off the overflow tank and poke it outside the bonnet and go for a run. You'll soon see it go off like a pressure cooker.

Do you still have the factory oil cooler?

what are your oil temps doing?

I have the same issue with my CA, couldn't keep it cool even with a 150% thicker radiator (25mm R32 Vs' 10mm Standard CA). Once i fitted a oil cooler never had an issue again.

Mt theory is that the only way that the engine could get the heat out of the oil is through the coolant.

i have an aftermarket oil cooler (and still the OEM near the filter block) and oil temps reach 130 ish after hard laps.

not really losing water... it doesnt use it. it pushes it out the rad once boiling and doesnt suck it all back in.

i always thought that was typically an air leak ie pushes water out but sucks air back in, but you've had a pressure test. maybe the rad cap is the problem and letting water out but sucking air back in. HG as suspected might explain why the water is being displaced.

Edited by Scooby

You still havent answered the question as to what type/thickness FMIC youre running.

Have you made any effort to ensure all airflow actually travels through the rad ie sealing and cowling of the radiator to the rad support???? Same with the oil cooler?

Any type of cooler works 1000% better with ducting/cowling.

It appears the car is mostly used for drift??? You need to make the most of the little airflow you get...

Again a pressure test shows absolutely nothing about the cooling ability of the radiator.

sorry mate missed your post.

its a 400X300X76 core mounted right in front of the rad. reason for this was to run shorter cooler piping and have the cooler in a safer position then the tradiational fmic location.

i have made an alloy box section up also which directs aii the air coming in from the front bar thro the IC and rad.. the sides are blocked off so it is un able to go anywhere else.

183152_1764592067976_1034359196_1948264_812334_n.jpg

183608_10150098000211109_693631108_6607544_2048564_n.jpg

Well Snowy is running a triple pass PWR items ATM i believe. So far so good.

Looks like that front bar is smaller than the ducting?

Also what is on top where the rad support is? If there is no panel, all the air is gonna do is go that way as it'll look for least resistance.

Or simply go around the sides. Also how much room between I/C & Rad?

Perhaps just take a photo looking down onto it

What cooler is right @ the bottom of the I/C?

front bar and duct are a snug fit, same size. the sides are the same width as the rad.. air is forced thro the cooler and the rad. the IC is 5mm away from the radiator. no top panel. should probably make one up.

the little cooler at the bottom is a power steering cooler.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
    • I'm not 100% how the BMW racers do it, but I know from other brands like Merc, moving, and changing the coolers is one of the things. Like getting a transcooler out from infront of the radiator to out near a wheel arch. So some of the stuff you've got crammed in the middle front, spread it out and open up where you can in the bar to get more air in to the sides.
    • Small update for the day... Turns out the intercooler and engine coolant hose kits are anything but complete....I probably should have counted better but it only really covers about half the coolant hoses in the car, it really just covers the visible stuff and pretends everything else doesn't exist (turbo water feed and returns and also heat exchanger lines through the 2 pumps and cooler) .In any case, I'm happier to have half reliable hoses than none, but a bit of a disappointment. Anyway...finger click (and 5 hours).....hoses in place, lots of spring clamps replaced with screw clamps, and engine coolant is on the pressure tester for the night.   Incidentally, upsized header tank is an Inifiniti factory option....not sure I'll ever do prod car racing in this but at least it is legal.
    • Just weld it onto the hot pipe. If you want it right after the turbo, put it right after the turbo. Or rip the comp cover off and drill and tap a hole into it.
    • hahaha glad I can rely on you two to go on a spiral at the drop of a problem! Some quick answers....the ducting is excellent top bottom and sides....everything that gets in goes through the coolers (noting the oil cooler redirects it out again, fair call if it is cooling 120o+) and the heat exchanger for the intercooler also has some scoops to pick up more than it's fair share too. I can't see going down the water spray track....no bueno for formal racing and a big risk for long rally days if you run out (plus I'm not clear if it is allowed there either yet).   Frankly, it must be possible to reliably put 400kw through a standard front end, the BMWs do it so I just need to work it out....I'm starting with reducing blockages in the way and adding some coolant capacity with a bigger header tank, flushing rad and making sure it was filled/bled properly (I didn't do the last coolant change); also taken measurements incase next step is a bigger/higher capacity custom radiator
×
×
  • Create New...