Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day SAUers.

I haven't seen a relevant group buy in Sydney in a while, so thought I'd ask.

I've had a bit of a read and it seems for spirited street use, on a budget, I'm looking at DBA 4000 slotted or cross-drilled rotors and Bendix General or Ultimate pads.

Can someone PM me a place in Sydney that will supply any of the following new R33 GTST front:

- DBA 4000 slotted rotors for less than $320 a pair

- DBA 4000 cross-drilled rotors for less than $500 a pair

- Benedix General pads for less than $70 a set

- Benedix Ultimate pads for less than $100 a set

I'm also looking for a new long-term trusted mechanic as mine has retired.

Preferrably somewhere I can build a direct relationship with the person who works on the car, not a front desk who passes on work order details.

I'm in the South Sydney area but I don't mind travelling around Sydney if I had to.

Thanks SAU.

Wouldn't go cross-drilled as they have problems with cracking...

If you can't find DBA for the price you want maybe consider slotted RDAs?

As for pads check out GLSRallySport (or something like that) in the trader section.

The QFM HPX pads are reportedly better than Bendix Ultimates & only around $80 a set. Haven't tried them yet myself but will be very soon...

I can attest to QFM HPX being excellent pads. Little to no noise (very rare occasions), very little dust, great pedal feel (not too much difference between hot/cold), they take a fair beating before fading - ample for most street driving.

G'day SAUers.

I haven't seen a relevant group buy in Sydney in a while, so thought I'd ask.

I've had a bit of a read and it seems for spirited street use, on a budget, I'm looking at DBA 4000 slotted or cross-drilled rotors and Bendix General or Ultimate pads.

Can someone PM me a place in Sydney that will supply any of the following new R33 GTST front:

- DBA 4000 slotted rotors for less than $320 a pair

- DBA 4000 cross-drilled rotors for less than $500 a pair

- Benedix General pads for less than $70 a set

- Benedix Ultimate pads for less than $100 a set

I'm also looking for a new long-term trusted mechanic as mine has retired.

Preferrably somewhere I can build a direct relationship with the person who works on the car, not a front desk who passes on work order details.

I'm in the South Sydney area but I don't mind travelling around Sydney if I had to.

Thanks SAU.

Look everyone has there own band wagons BUT a LARGE majority of the people in this forum use Yavuz at Uni Group Engineering. From what ive witnessed his a really nice bloke that will tell you straight up whats what and what can be done and what can be done on a budget or if itll need a bit more money then what you have.

I personally use the QFM A1FRM which have been really good to me but there more a TRACK and then a day to day pad because they dont like low temps.

Sid

Stay away from cross-drilled rotors. They are fine for the street as they don't really get that hot, but any spirited driving/track activities will crack. There are multiple issues and threads over this etc...

If i could find dba 4000 slotted discs for under $320 for the pair i would be laughing! Cheapest i've seen is around $420 :(

+1 on RDA rotors and QFM pads. Surprised that no one has asked you what you do - just road driving, light course work or trackdays?

For road any of those options are probably ok. Don't forget that skylines are heavy beasts. They need lots of stopping power.

I run RDA slotted and QFM A1RM for street / Texi Days. For track days I swap out to Hawk Blue race pads. My first track day I cooked a set of EBC Reds that are supposed to be their high performance street / track pad. Aggro Dave did the same on Saturday - cost him a front bar and oil cooler.

So, in general get the right pad for the right type of driving you will be doing. Do NOT put race pads in for daily as they do take a little while to heat up and work properly. Lastly, I think RDA are good value as the better your pads are the more they will eat up rotors. Just a fact of life.

Little more than my 2 cents.

check out Greg - GSL Rallysport - in our trader section :)

he does RDA's and QFM's

if you want more a track pad the QFM's are great on a budget, they also now have an uprated track pad

theyc also have the street pad HPX or something

willing to go group buy on the QFMs, though i have had bendix ultimates in for about six months now and they have been fine (though i really should bleed the lines at some point..)

G'day SAUers.

I haven't seen a relevant group buy in Sydney in a while, so thought I'd ask.

I've had a bit of a read and it seems for spirited street use, on a budget, I'm looking at DBA 4000 slotted or cross-drilled rotors and Bendix General or Ultimate pads.

Can someone PM me a place in Sydney that will supply any of the following new R33 GTST front:

- DBA 4000 slotted rotors for less than $320 a pair

- DBA 4000 cross-drilled rotors for less than $500 a pair

- Benedix General pads for less than $70 a set

- Benedix Ultimate pads for less than $100 a set

I'm also looking for a new long-term trusted mechanic as mine has retired.

Preferrably somewhere I can build a direct relationship with the person who works on the car, not a front desk who passes on work order details.

I'm in the South Sydney area but I don't mind travelling around Sydney if I had to.

Thanks SAU.

I have a R33 GTST with 250rwkw that sees the track a few times a year and I run QFM A1RM pads and they are superb. Just about to get another set in a few weeks, happy to get them again. They are great for the street too, just need a few light stops to warm up.

I have a Mechanic who i have used for over 10 years in Artarmon, he is not a Skyline specialist but a top mechanic. For any tuning issues i see Yavuz from Unigroup but everything else my local mechanic gets the nod. If you want his details then drop me a PM.

Cheers.

Andrew

I'd pretty much agree with all of the above. I run the QFM & RDA combination as many do, however I'd also recommend braided brake lines - you'll be amazed at the difference in pedal feel. On an R34 I noticed very little adding a brake cylinder stopper (as above), but that may be different on earlier models.

Orly?

getting one of these cylinder stoppy things tonight, hope it makes a difference as i have been waiting on it for a while.

keep hearing about this unigroup guy, is the place waaaay out west though? been using IS racing in rockdale now and then, im sure there good but a little exxy. was eighty bucks just to pump some smoke through and look for a boost leak.

it was found and i drove out to a guy he recommended, skyline parts in wetherill park who fitted a new hose etc for fifty bucks!

went to the track day, turned boost up and same high pitched whine and now only 0.75 bar instead of .9. sigh

sorry if off topic.

at least 3 of us in here getting QF pads soon then, enough for a group buy?>? :P

you dont need a group buy - Greg from GSL rally sport has them at good prices

see the trader/business forum here

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/217-sau-trader-gsl-rallysport-promotions/

p.s. yes braided lines are good!

had them on my r33 also which was mostly a street car with a few track days - although the mx5 has to have them with the class its built to

so yeah, get them too!

Yavuz would be 45mins-1hr tops from the centre of Sydney mate. Hardly a long way when you think about it, he will have the car for at least a day anyway and is about 5mins from girraween station.

Well worth it IMO.

ok thanks dave and other evil guy, will look into it for sure.

passenger in my car said it didnt sound exactly like a boost leak so might need a professional to look at it anyway

apparently a lot of time for part timers at tracks is in the braking, like most of it. good pads and lines could help just a tad..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...