Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Im currently looking at a AU XR8 manual as a tow car for my 32 and for the misses to drive during the week.

I was just wondering if any one up there has owned one and had any problems?

Or if theres any comman faults i should be on the lookout for?

I test drove it today and for a car thats done 210,000kms i was pretty impressed with the feel of the engine and driveline.

Any input would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/
Share on other sites

They use lots of fuel....

You want one of these (at a really good price too...)

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/dealer/details.aspx?R=9509282&__Qpb=true&Cr=1&__Ns=pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_PriceSort_Decimal|1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&keywords=&__N=1216%201247%201252%201282%204294967079%20903%20408%204294966839&SearchAction=N&silo=1011&PriceTo=408&seot=1&__Nne=15&trecs=7&__sid=12CB54BF3AF7

Not bias or anything......

I LOVE BMWs! FWIW, my mum has a 528i E39 and I've managed 6.2L/100km out of it ;) ^V8 so good for towing I guess lol.

Edited by Ten Four
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5712267
Share on other sites

^ ^ ^ So long as that 535i has had all its services done properly, it's a bargain.

I'd check fault codes and fluid leaks re side tanks, water pump, oil. Electronic digital cluster can degrade over time.

Even as a V8, the beemer uses much less fuel than the XR8 and the E39 cornering ability is renowned

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5712511
Share on other sites

If you are going to use it for towing, get an auto.

Braked tow capacity for a manual is nearly half of what an auto is rated for.

And yes they are thirsty, it cost me $140 in fuel to go from Sydney with the trailer to Newcastle then back with the car on.

On average about $120 a week in fuel to run. We use premium though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5712547
Share on other sites

Mmmmm......yeah get a beemer, casue like, it'll be super cheap to fix when things start wearing out prematurely because you've been using it as a tow vehicle.

Hell, the extra $12 million dollars it will cost to maintain a beemer will be more than offset by the $15 per week saving in petrol you are bound to make.

Wait, I've just re-read you OP and realised you didn't ask for an alternative to an AU XR8. Silly me.

The AUs are bullet proof and pretty much perfect for what you want. Any vehicle capable of towing another vehicle frequently without collapsing in a heap is going to use a bit more juice than the rest as it's A) Heavier - to deal with the extra stress of towing and B) going to have a bigger motor.

As long as the AU has been looked after you shouldn't have any issues.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5712581
Share on other sites

Mmmmm......yeah get a beemer, casue like, it'll be super cheap to fix when things start wearing out prematurely because you've been using it as a tow vehicle.

Hell, the extra $12 million dollars it will cost to maintain a beemer will be more than offset by the $15 per week saving in petrol you are bound to make.

Wait, I've just re-read you OP and realised you didn't ask for an alternative to an AU XR8. Silly me.

The AUs are bullet proof and pretty much perfect for what you want. Any vehicle capable of towing another vehicle frequently without collapsing in a heap is going to use a bit more juice than the rest as it's A) Heavier - to deal with the extra stress of towing and B) going to have a bigger motor.

As long as the AU has been looked after you shouldn't have any issues.

Lol. thumbsup.gifyes.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5712663
Share on other sites

Mmmmm......yeah get a beemer, casue like, it'll be super cheap to fix when things start wearing out prematurely because you've been using it as a tow vehicle.

Hell, the extra $12 million dollars it will cost to maintain a beemer will be more than offset by the $15 per week saving in petrol you are bound to make.

Wait, I've just re-read you OP and realised you didn't ask for an alternative to an AU XR8. Silly me.

The AUs are bullet proof and pretty much perfect for what you want. Any vehicle capable of towing another vehicle frequently without collapsing in a heap is going to use a bit more juice than the rest as it's A) Heavier - to deal with the extra stress of towing and B) going to have a bigger motor.

As long as the AU has been looked after you shouldn't have any issues.

Win!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5712716
Share on other sites

Which series is it? Is it a series 1 XR8? If you can, try to go for a later model with the 220KW engine.

The mechanicals of the AUs are pretty reliable, but the interior quality can degrade quite heavily over time. Also, some of the smaller things like the electriconics can be unreliable. I've known of several AU owners (including my dad) who had constant problems with the radio, electric windows and mirrors and some of the engine management electronics. But I guess any used car would have these problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5713946
Share on other sites

My dad had similar issues to those on his au.

I was looking at them a while ago. The basic 5.0 L engine isn't much more powerful (13kW) or torquey (32Nm) than the xr6 at the time. And, worst of all, made at about the same rpm. It certainly felt pretty slow and heavy, despite extractors and twin 3" exhausts (well, felt and WAS slow and heavy). Getting out of the r34 and straight into it didn't help though.

(Source: http://www.trueblueford.com/AU_XR_Specifications.html )

When I was looking at them the problem that kept coming up was a whining diff, which needed some pin replaced, can't remember how much it was. Certainly wasn't cheap. I also found the pedals sticky and numb, not smooth like in almost every japanese car I've driven.

All that said though, it's a lot of car for the dough and the noise was fantastic!!! Also cheap to fix and your average mechanic is capable of working on it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5714149
Share on other sites

Bit of a tangent here, but on the question of what feels faster, a torquey, low revving V8 will often feel slower than a high revving turbo 6 as it makes power everywhere which means no "coming on boost" which can often give the false impression of speed.

My mate has an SII BA XR8 and it's almost neck and neck between it and my R33 GTST (mine is ever so fractionally faster in a straight line) however the R33 feels much faster. I remember the first time I took him for a spin in it his head nearly exploded as he thought it was so damn fast. Fact is, it's not much different to his car, and he flogs his thing everywhere. It's just his thing makes pwer from idle so lacks that kick in the pants feel that pretty much everyone on here is likely addicted to.

So while something like an XR8 may feel a lot slower than something like a turbo skyline, fact is there's probably a lot less between them than you think. And when it comes to corners, it's about 70% driver 30% car so a good steerer in an XR8 will likely spank a nubcake in a skyline.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5714459
Share on other sites

I agree with the cowboy above, but I was also watching the speedo and there was a big difference between it and the r34 (running on 12-13 psi with exhaust, nothing too fancy). In terms of feel it felt slower than my current magna, but i don't think that was the case.

Also, unless I'm mistaken, the ba v8 was a crapload better than the au. The numbers on the au xr8 over the xr6 arent great for the au:

xr6

172 kW @ 5000 rpm

370 Nm @ 3500 rpm

xr8

185 kW @ 4600 rpm

412 Nm @ 3500 rpm

I'd go the xr6. Actually I would and did go magna. Not sure how it'd go towing a car though. There was a towcar thread on here a little while ago that in a nutshell strongly recommended people buy big 4wds so that the 2 tonnes of gear following can be kept under control.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5714499
Share on other sites

I recall the time that the AU XR8's were running out, Ford were doing some interesting stuff with them. One of the car magazines put one on the dyno and it nearly made the flywheel ppower figure at the wheels. Apparently they were using roller rockers and other goodies in these engines to try and catch the 5.7 Holdens, even though the marketing department never made a lot of noise about it.

As others have said, they are pretty rugged, no nonsense cars that are generally good value for money. They'll never impress euro or jap import snobs, but you do get a fair bit of car for the money.

The unreliable electrics seems to be common in Falcons. Mine had to have the following replaced under warranty: ECU, Central locking computer, power mirrors and power door lock actuators (twice). Each time I took it in for a complaint, the response was "yeh, they all do that" >_<

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5714546
Share on other sites

Au Fords were actually very mechanically sound. You shouldn't have many problems with it, mechanically that is - It had the lowest warranty issues of all family sedans during it's time (even less than the Toyota Camry and unlike the VT, which had the highest warranty issues.)

Their manual gearbox is also unbreakable. Power-wise the au S1 and 2 left much to be desired. at ~175kw The s3 on the other hand was 220kw. Torque was awesome though so for towing you shouldn't have a problem.

If it's for a good price as you say, then go for it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357250-au-xr8/#findComment-5714614
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...