Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im wondering whats the process involved to change the front pipe on a 34 GTR, can it all be done from underneath the car or do you have to go in from the top aswell. Are there any tools that are a must have when doing this job and anything else to look out for.

Also looking at doing a fuel pump upgrade sometime in the future, are anyone running walbro's or bosch 040 in the 34gtr???? whats the general concensus with fuel pump upgrades for the 34 GTR.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357353-gtr-front-pipe-removal/
Share on other sites

i did my front pipe here at home on the drive way. i jacked the side of the car up, slipped some car stands under for good measure

just undo the bolts holding ur cat to front pipe, then with a long extension socket undo the 2 bolts per turbo holding the front pipe to the dump pipes, very easy to do.

as for fuel pump, i was gonna run a bosch, but for the stuffing around required to make them fit i bought a Sard 280lp/h drop in pump. that was my first time doing a fuel pump and it took me a max of 1.5hours.

cheers for the responses guys, have done plenty of work on gtst's and evos but never anything on a gtr. Will be taking my time, good to know I can just get it underneath with an extension bar (and some wd40 etc) its what I was hoping for.

for the fuel pump forget the walbro or 044. buy a nismo/sard/tomei drop in 276L/ph pump. they support 700cc injectors and bolt in with no hassles. worth every penny.

As above - I did mine in 40 mins, then sat around wondering if I'd done it wrong cos it was too easy. You also get the rubber tank seal included in the kit and no wiring to do.

is gasket sealant required when fitting a brand new front pipe with brand new gaskets?

also i noticed tomei also offers a wiring harness to bypass the fuel pump voltage control module. is this a worthwhile mod together with installing say a tomei drop in fuel pump? or is there a easy DIY way to bypass that fuel pump voltage control module?

i just used a dot of gasket/sealant crap to hold the gaskets in place as i was fitting the front pipe..

funnily enough my 20yr old rusted bolts were easy to undo.. the bolts holding the "cat" in which were 2 weeks old were way harder to undo haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...