Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im wondering whats the process involved to change the front pipe on a 34 GTR, can it all be done from underneath the car or do you have to go in from the top aswell. Are there any tools that are a must have when doing this job and anything else to look out for.

Also looking at doing a fuel pump upgrade sometime in the future, are anyone running walbro's or bosch 040 in the 34gtr???? whats the general concensus with fuel pump upgrades for the 34 GTR.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357353-gtr-front-pipe-removal/
Share on other sites

i did my front pipe here at home on the drive way. i jacked the side of the car up, slipped some car stands under for good measure

just undo the bolts holding ur cat to front pipe, then with a long extension socket undo the 2 bolts per turbo holding the front pipe to the dump pipes, very easy to do.

as for fuel pump, i was gonna run a bosch, but for the stuffing around required to make them fit i bought a Sard 280lp/h drop in pump. that was my first time doing a fuel pump and it took me a max of 1.5hours.

cheers for the responses guys, have done plenty of work on gtst's and evos but never anything on a gtr. Will be taking my time, good to know I can just get it underneath with an extension bar (and some wd40 etc) its what I was hoping for.

for the fuel pump forget the walbro or 044. buy a nismo/sard/tomei drop in 276L/ph pump. they support 700cc injectors and bolt in with no hassles. worth every penny.

As above - I did mine in 40 mins, then sat around wondering if I'd done it wrong cos it was too easy. You also get the rubber tank seal included in the kit and no wiring to do.

is gasket sealant required when fitting a brand new front pipe with brand new gaskets?

also i noticed tomei also offers a wiring harness to bypass the fuel pump voltage control module. is this a worthwhile mod together with installing say a tomei drop in fuel pump? or is there a easy DIY way to bypass that fuel pump voltage control module?

i just used a dot of gasket/sealant crap to hold the gaskets in place as i was fitting the front pipe..

funnily enough my 20yr old rusted bolts were easy to undo.. the bolts holding the "cat" in which were 2 weeks old were way harder to undo haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...