Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I hate you so much at the moment Craig. At least I know mine are on the way!

Gold......my wife run's the club if you want membership!

Got the road free to myself this morning after getting past an AU XR8.....pfffft!

A little bit of a play through the last couple of corners......front end react's perfectly....Nankang's react baddomokun.gif..........lol......XR8 must have been on retread cross-ply's......

Haha maybe I should get her to pull your sway bars off for me :P

Get some new tyres! Nankang's are RUBBISH! And in the wet it's like skating on steel wheels. Worst tyres this side of retreads.

Haha maybe I should get her to pull your sway bars off for me :P

Get some new tyres! Nankang's are RUBBISH! And in the wet it's like skating on steel wheels. Worst tyres this side of retreads.

totally agree...Nankang's are SHIT!!!!!.....first set of crap tyres ever!!!.....but they are also the first set of tyres that I have had on the car for more than a year....and they have coped a hiding!

Might be back to the trusty old Falken's in a month.

I'll admit, I had some "help" from my 3 yr old son today; you guys like sticky tape, right?:whistling:

Mine arrived yesterday. Two days to arrive :thumbsup: and now it looks like it will take three days to unwrap! Your 3yo son did a very good job with the tape.

Thanks again for all your effort Dale :worship: - can't wait to put them on, although that could be a week away!

Mine arrived today also. My son unwrapped them & he was like a kid in an erm auto parts store lol.

There was only one minor issue. A bag of the grease busted open & the bag that was around that was also split so I've got black stuff all over the place :yucky:.

I don't suppose there's anything too special about that grease? I've got a few different types of 'standard' grease around if I can't squeeze enough out of the 2 packets supplied.

Mate, they really look great. All those gold anodised fittings make it look very pro, and even match my TV tuner lol. Thanks again Dale.

I fitted the front bar last night, I had some issues with the gold clamp rings, they seem to hit the chassis when clamped to the bar and only allow a small amount of bar travel. Has anyone else hit this problem? I was worried it would cause load on the links.

I only had to file a bit off the lower part of the clamp to make it work though...

Jules did tell me he'd had a similar issue with his, which manifested in a light knocking noise; but that Whiteline had sorted the issue. I believe due to the large diameter of the bar, the orientation of the collar will be fairly critical.

If you are installing these with the car on ramps this should be fairly straight forward, if on stands, it's a little more complicated. Scottys solution is a fairly simple one; grind or file the area to gain some clearance.

If anyone has a problem; please let me know.

Cheers, Dale.

I just fitted Ironpaw's bars today, same issue with the front locating clamps. I just filed a few mm off the upper half of the clamp and it gave me back all the travel the bar would need. They have to be clamped hard one side so when you lower the car they sit central giving the bar plenty of clearance. Other than that they are great.

We set the rear bar at maximum, (closest hole to the mounts) and the heavy front bar on the softer outside holes. How do they feel mate?

Jules did tell me he'd had a similar issue with his, which manifested in a light knocking noise; but that Whiteline had sorted the issue. I believe due to the large diameter of the bar, the orientation of the collar will be fairly critical.

If you are installing these with the car on ramps this should be fairly straight forward, if on stands, it's a little more complicated. Scottys solution is a fairly simple one; grind or file the area to gain some clearance.

If anyone has a problem; please let me know.

Cheers, Dale.

My clamps were sweet. . but I know they did shave a bit off them at time of fitting. . the knocking noise was an issue with the powder coating and bolt diameter which created the knocking but was all sorted. But mine was the R & D car so it was expected, the things I force my stag to do for others. . whistling.gif

I guess variations in cars would account for mm differences. .

Mine rock and I love them. . my settings are hard front & medium rear. . . . which Whiteline found offered the best results for street conditions.

I just fitted Ironpaw's bars today, same issue with the front locating clamps. I just filed a few mm off the upper half of the clamp and it gave me back all the travel the bar would need. They have to be clamped hard one side so when you lower the car they sit central giving the bar plenty of clearance. Other than that they are great.

We set the rear bar at maximum, (closest hole to the mounts) and the heavy front bar on the softer outside holes. How do they feel mate?

It's f**king sweet as! Now I understand the "corner devouring" thing. Most of the body roll is gone. Cornering and the turning seems much sharper and precise.

Almost got self killed trying to take a hairpin too fast...I miraculously slid out the rear and slid over a traffic island while missing a sign post on the island and a parked ve ss sportswagon by inches...

Took the car to mt dandenong this Arvo...great place to put the car thru its paces!

Havent really felt any different comfort wise...I want to try the max setting on the front bars!!

Edited by ironpaw

Told ya :thumbsup:

BTW, all that "Corner Devouring" was obviously done on your private road; don't want people getting silly ideas now...:ph34r:

Glad you're enjoying them. :cheers:

Of course...I was strictly following the speed limit...just didn't brake enough :whistling:

Australia Post has let me down, and they STILL haven't arrived! :rant:

Hopefully they'll be waiting for me when I get back from Melbourne Thursday night. Serves me right for being optimistic with Australia Post...

Fitting them Saturday hopefully, going to follow Jules' suggestion of hard front and medium rear if I can work them out.

Couple of questions...

  1. Do they come with instructions on fitting/setup?
  2. Is the filing issue Scotty found only applicable if you fit them on a hoist/with the wheels suspended in the air?

Australia Post has let me down, and they STILL haven't arrived! :rant:

Hopefully they'll be waiting for me when I get back from Melbourne Thursday night. Serves me right for being optimistic with Australia Post...

Fitting them Saturday hopefully, going to follow Jules' suggestion of hard front and medium rear if I can work them out.

Couple of questions...

  1. Do they come with instructions on fitting/setup?
  2. Is the filing issue Scotty found only applicable if you fit them on a hoist/with the wheels suspended in the air?

No good mate, hopefully very soon!

I didn't open them up to check, but I believe they do come with fitting instructions.

I think it might be a good idea to slip the collar into position and check for clearance either way; saves removing them later if there's an issue.

If Scotty reads this; did you take a pic of where you were getting contact, or where you filed the collars for clearance?

I understand where you're talking about; but it might be good to illustrate for the others as my bars being a different diameter, don't have this issue.

If so could you please post them up?

Cheers, Dale.

Edited by Daleo

Yeah I no Dale, all good! Australia Post can just be slack sometimes, esp in my area!

I got the impression reading other people's posts that if you put the car up in the air with the wheels suspended, you'd get the clearance issue. If you put the car up with the wheels supported you'd be all good. Just wanted to check this before I gave it a bash.

It will hit either way, and im not removing all those tray screws and the bar again. lol.

Before you put the links on, just test the travel of the bar and you will see what I mean. File the upper clamp a little, both sides of the flat section and it will allow more travel.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...