Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The car i am looking to buy has one slight problem. When decelerating in 1st and 2nd gear, it makes a screaming noise. I have had a mechanical check on it and the inspector said it was a bearing in the gearbox. He went on to say change the oil to automatic oil and you will probably not notice it anymore.

I am not very keen on the whole changing oil thing and would rather get it fixed. Can anyone help me with what bearing it might be and costs involved.

I appreciate the help.

Cheers

:bond: - jsut had to use this!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35754-gearbox-screaming-on-deceleration/
Share on other sites

gearbox is on its way out...i had this problem with the misses focus...will cost alot to fix as the gearbox must be removed...not worth buying the car as it will cost a bit to fix...look around for another car...there are plenty of good skylines for sale in qld

I was really hoping that was not an option! But then again i had a feeling it would be this way!

The car is exactly what i am after! Oh well.

The mechanic said it was a certain bearing and would only cost $400ish to fix? He mentioned that it was only used during 1st and 2nd gears, hence the noise only being in 1st and 2nd.

How much for a complete new gearbox installed?

Yea sounds like the gearbox could be on its way out. What kind of car is it doofus?? Its hard to comment on the car if we dont know what it is. If you are handy on the tools, a second hand replacement gearbox should be no more than $600. Factor this into the price the seller is asking and put in a reasonable offer taking the gearbox problem into account.

Has anyone actually had this happen to their skyline. The mechanic actually told me it was not a major drama and would only cost $400ish, to replace a single bearing.

Just from a mechanic saying one bearing, to others saying gearbox is fu*ked. on driving the car the gearbox feels very solid, no crunching etc...

In what way is the gearbox wrecked?

sorry mate, all i knew is that both times my car made that sound was cos i thrashed the shit out of it, and then it blew. Then i got it fixed and it eventually happened again, this time when i was driving more sensibly.

If u r really interested, tell the owner u will buy the car if he gets it fixed b4 hand, and then u will pay the asking price, otherwise tell him to knock of 1500 for a new gbox.

remember when you go to buy a car and something goes wrong, the seller always says something like "don't worry about that mate, that's easily fixed". if it were as simple as an oil change then it would have been done already prior to selling as it would ensure a sale...

if the car looks in good nick then the gearbox is probably the reson its being sold.

keep looking... and good luck...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...