Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i got the instruction manual for the wideband i want to make sure it's going to be useful before i get it.

"The Bar Graph Display (BGD) Range Setting Mode allows you to fine tune the resolution of this instrument for your specific application. With upper and lower set point adjustability, you can set the BGD to utilize the exact range that the engine / vehicle operates within and see exactly how rich or lean you are running in relation to your current set up and tune. Adjusting your BGD limits also adjusts the scaling of the 0-4v data logger output supplied from the gauge. The selected low set point of the BGD Range becomes the 0v value of the data logger output. The selected high set point of the BGD Range becomes the 4v value of the data logger output. Whenever you change these points, the instrument adjusts the data logger output so that the 0-4v signal is always linear between your chosen set points. "

post-83704-0-02693300-1350463737_thumb.png

Looks pretty good Theo. WOT input looks interesting, mine doesn't have that. Although the Innovate's have a built in data logger, whereas the Auto Meter seems to want one connected (which is probably the output you'd use for the F-con).

But at the end of the day it depends on whether the tuner wants to use it constantly, or whether you just use one of those ones you can stick in the tailpipe for the day.

My dyno has its own wideband that logs afr to the graph.

I have 2 standalone widebands that can be used for datalogging or roadtuning.

I recommend putting the wideband in for piece of mind, can then see if u have a lean out etc due to fuel surge or fuel pump failures etc

Howd it go today Theo :)

So all ur worry was a false alarm, the 02 sensor reading in the cypher software the Alex was reading from has no bearing on what the actual AFR's are. Tune was fine except for the 1 area which u heard a ping at low rpm high load which was very difficult to replicate on the dyno due to the auto but i found it and fixed it.

Ps, nice single pegger skid when u left :P

Very interesting today Jez- so we know stock ECU > Theos aftermarket computer> motor.

And I can only read what the stockie puts out.

Had a great run coming back down the old Pac- volvo convoy.

Very interesting today Jez- so we know stock ECU > Theos aftermarket computer> motor.

And I can only read what the stockie puts out.

Had a great run coming back down the old Pac- volvo convoy.

Nice :)

Yeah was very weird, especially how much difference there was in the ignition timing output from his aftermarket ecu to ur software

So second tune and no gains? C'mon Theo, slap a Hypergear in there... :P

All the stock ecu does now Alex is run the throttle and cams, nothing else has a bearing other than to keep the MIL away. I have no idea what signals the Fcon sends back to keep it happy but whatever it is, thank you mr HKS.

Jez also found some little parts of the pre-loaded tune that were no so good - and sorted them out.

I've got some logs from the power runs. Might load them if I can be stuffed

That's why I wouldn't use maps designed for other cars, you will always end up chasing gremlins in the tune imo.

Post them up Alex, I would be interested to learn what the Fcon is doing to the stock ecu and that may hold the key. If I end up going down the Link G4 route I may need the same signal bending output maps... The manual transmission will open up a world of possibilities. ;)

Honestly i wouldnt trust the log files as even the timing etc is way off

Exactly right.

As I said it goes Stock ECU > aftermarket>engine.

So Ign timing is not correct for the engine, but other things like Cams, AFM, and BFS are all able to be seen accurately.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...