Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 155
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

J31 maxima rear drums are a slight upgrade if you wanna clear 15's, thats if the j31 calipers bolt on( haven't got round to confirming /sourcing the brakes) and will need to redrill to 4 stud as they are 5

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

The buckles should be sweet.

R32/R33 front seats can be swapped in and their original buckles used, so I can't imagine the rears are different.

The actual assembly/box thing that retracts the belts might be a different shape/fit though.

so i know its in the parts thread. but not exactly what im after.

my rack is leakin in the laurel..

it was originally hicas. ive since put in a non hicas cradle and removed the lines yadda yadda.

i plan to replace the rack when i remove the engine and would like to put a non hicas rack in if possible.

can i use a non hicas s13 rack or will the lines not fit up??

I've grabbed pics of the non hicas A31 and S13 ps racks iff you guys wanted to give them a look. There's 2 of each, Ceffy are the top ones.

11gtvl5.png

357q7v4.png

S13

2edp15i.png

ekg47t.png

Looks like if you have the top Cef rack either S13 rack should line up pretty easily, the other ceff rack(duet-ss?) is completely different.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Aye, everything is being touched and all the parts that are responsible for the oiling issues are also fixed. (Crank collar, billet prp oil pump, head return to sump, yada yada yada)  Everything used is of reputable brands like greddy, prp etc. My tuner did mention we’d keep the torque on the “lower” side.   glad to read that my engine won’t blow up on me lmao 
    • It's a fuel pump. EFI, high pressure, but specs otherwise unknown. A bodge job.
    • 800 engine horsies is fine. Will need all the obvious upgrades. Rods, pistons, oil pump, big sump, sump breathing mods. Build for revs because revs are power with less stress on the bottom end compared to boost. Keep the torque down in the midrange, either by limiting boost or timing.  
    • Hiya guys,    i’m currently in the process of getting my rb26 built. everything is being replaced with better/upgraded parts or oem when that’s good enough (which isn’t alot lol). someone earlier mentioned to me that i’ll be screwed cause the iron block can’t take 800hp (to the engine, not wheels) which is what it’s being built for.  what do you guys think about this, am I cooked or na? The guy building the engine will also do the mapping as he is “the guru of old nissan engines” here in Belgium. I know the mapping makes a huge deal so i’m not concerned about that.    I honestly he’s talking shit cause he’s that kinda guy but a second opinion never hurt anyone! cheers in advance! 🫶🏻
    • I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
×
×
  • Create New...