Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a super crap quality video showing traction issues from a rolling start, the RSR's are hot and sticky here but still it only grips up in 3rd as i shifted early which lost a bit of momentum, LOVING the 7700rpm shift light (Uses the engine light) its still a lot of laughs -

Of course this was performed on a private driver training centre!

Yep. Yours is faster than mine :glare:

Lol when it wants to actually go without breaking something! Wait till the next update with "Broken" bits....

whats the go with the wipers cutting in during third gear, i cant see you hitting the 'stick'? lol :P

Yeah they were on intermittant as i had water on the windscreen from washing it, i was not paying much attention to the wiper operation at that stage :P

While cruising the Haltech dropped the car into a "safe" mode but i was on Pennant Hills Rd and it took a while to get a place to stop safely, the temps were looking OK on the factory gauges but obviously the Haltech was getting a more accurate reading and wanting the car to shut down..... After shutting the car down I could smell coolant and then the stress cracks in the radiator decided they had enough -

IMG_5015_zpsd62b8b2a.jpg

So at this time we had to let the car cool off too dead cold before attempting to repair etc to get home, a tube of trusty super glue and the cap on its first click did it but my nice black engine bay looks incredibly crap now!!! Will get in and detail once the cooling system repairs take place...

So first things first, i need better gauges to get an idea on what the temps are really doing, after a bit of research and reading some independant tests it shows the cheapie stepper motor gauges are doing everything the big names can so i opted for the Race Tech Race Series (Fancy name for Defi copy that you can adjust stuff on lol) -

IMG_5143_zps01bcf73a.jpg

I chose Water Temp, Oil Temp and Oil Pressure as they seemed like the ones i need to be keeping an eye on! The new Greddy Boost controller reads boost which i dont wanna see anyway as if it spikes the Haltech is all over it!

I also chose the blue LED to keep the dash with the Blue with Red needles, the Greddy Boost controller now also fits the look!

IMG_3582_zps073485da.jpg

This is an old pic but you get the idea.....

I did some research on radiators as i was going to purchase just an Ebay spec and then figured it was probably just asking for trouble after hearing stories of them buckling and leaking etc..... So after narrowing the choice down to 3 brands/types i went with the Racepace triple pass radiator which seems to get a pretty good review from the guys currently using them, Chris from Racepace was super helpful and the purchase was made -

IMG_5142_zps65d9067b.jpg

And YES for those wondering it will be getting MOAR black when i get the time lol

To get a sender to fit i needed to purchase a Speedflow adapter -

IMG_5147Email_zps4d783d7e.jpg

IMG_5145_zpsdc42904b.jpg

IMG_5148_zps9e19f41f.jpg

Ill get all this sorted and in so i can clean it all up, fire it up and see what is going on :D

I did some research on radiators as i was going to purchase just an Ebay spec and then figured it was probably just asking for trouble after hearing stories of them buckling and leaking etc..... So after narrowing the choice down to 3 brands/types i went with the Racepace triple pass radiator which seems to get a pretty good review from the guys currently using them, Chris from Racepace was super helpful and the purchase was made -

IMG_5142_zps65d9067b.jpg

And YES for those wondering it will be getting MOAR black when i get the time lol

My stock radiator packed up last week too! :angry: was lucky that it didnt overheat , i just noticed it all pissing out from underneath when i got home, the stock one is really thin and looking at it i dont know how it lasted so long..

anyway, i ended up getting a cheapy from autobarn but looks the same as the one you've pictured, says MSpec on the top, i guess it was just a matter of time hey....

that whistle is awesome in the vid :whistling: more vids needed :worship:

My stock radiator packed up last week too! :angry: was lucky that it didnt overheat , i just noticed it all pissing out from underneath when i got home, the stock one is really thin and looking at it i dont know how it lasted so long..

anyway, i ended up getting a cheapy from autobarn but looks the same as the one you've pictured, says MSpec on the top, i guess it was just a matter of time hey....

that whistle is awesome in the vid :whistling: more vids needed :worship:

They look similar on the outside but this is a triple pass radiator, i found cheaper Koyo rads etc but after talking to a few people it seemed the N flo was a good design as it keeps the water in the radiator longer etc....

The whistle is awesome, its one of the reasons i havent swapped the bigger turbo onto the car as i do love it!

I should be ready to bolt it back together BUT i just need a confirmed answer with that sensor, as you can see in the second pic the sensor bottoms out on the adapter and i need to know what to use to seal it etc.... As soon as i know the answer to that i can get it all back together :)

So that's why you didn't come to the track day!!!

Next month I think they are having another one ;)

Thinking of changing my rad setup too, PM price of the race pace one when you get a chance

U got PM :thumbsup:

I'll be out there soon enough mate!!

How much did those guages set you back man?

You can get the cheap off Ebay, i wanted them quick so i ordered them through an Aussie supplier for overnight delivery for $250...... You can get the non adjustable ones cheaper again.......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
×
×
  • Create New...