Jump to content
SAU Community

Constant *thud* Noise Over 80Km/h

Rekin
 Share

Recommended Posts

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
Posted

Hello all,

During a trackday training day i went backwards over a ripple strip and heard a massive bang underneath the car. Assumed I smashed the dump pipe on the ripple strip. Turned back around and kept on driving as normal. Everything seemed to be fine till the end of the day.

When driving back i noticed a constant thud noise coming from the car when Im over 80km/h.

It sounds like a flat spot or buckled rim; *thud* *thud* *thud*. From 80kmh+ the sound is quite noticeable.

Clutch in; Sound still there

Clutch in, neutral, clutch out, rolling at speeds above 80km/h sound still present.

This would mean its related to suspension, diff, tyres, rims, tailshaft?

Wheels have been balanced and aligned. Rims have been checked for any buckling and seem fine.

The kicker is that the thud sound comes and goes! If i drive up to the city, the thud noise is quite loud. However, after a couple of hours and driving back the sound is completely gone! Its hard to replicate it to any mechanic as it seems to come and go and Im not sure why :/

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Might chuck on a set of stockies for a week and see if i can still hear/feel it. That would eliminate tyres/rims as being the problem.

Thanks all...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358494-constant-thud-noise-over-80kmh/
Share on other sites
MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

Sounds definitely like a flat spotted tyre.

Drove a VN to Canberra from Sydney with 4 flat spotted tyres, exactly the same thing but it came at 100KM/H, and would come and go.

Could also be felt through steering and floor. They were some massive flat spots though... LOL

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sounds definitely like a flat spotted tyre.

Drove a VN to Canberra from Sydney with 4 flat spotted tyres, exactly the same thing but it came at 100KM/H, and would come and go.

Could also be felt through steering and floor. They were some massive flat spots though... LOL

both rear tyres have been replaced and sound still there. Unless i flat spotted the fronts, however dont get any steering wheel shake/wobble... Will swap to stockies and see what happens!

cheers

NickR33 Grand Master

NickR33

Posted
Posted

both rear tyres have been replaced and sound still there. Unless i flat spotted the fronts, however dont get any steering wheel shake/wobble... Will swap to stockies and see what happens!

cheers

my bet is bent rim... I went straight on at turn 1 sandown over the ripple strip... thought I had knocked a wheel weight off or flat spotted a tyre... turned out to be a slightly bent rim as the tyre place couldn't balance it... it only needs to be a few mm out and will thud like that at certain speeds

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

Swap wheels first, if that doesn't work, get it up on hoist (if you can) and drive it at 80km/h+

If it makes the sound then you know it's drivetrain related. Could be the diff or a loose driveshaft.

GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
Posted

Sounds definitely like a flat spotted tyre.

Drove a VN to Canberra from Sydney with 4 flat spotted tyres, exactly the same thing but it came at 100KM/H, and would come and go.

Could also be felt through steering and floor. They were some massive flat spots though... LOL

Hmm, maybe from texi?????????!!! Not as smooth as she used to be :domokun:

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Could the castrate inside the cat converter have been dislodged from it's body?

interesting, although you can feel the thud through the body of the car and its always at a constant rate. Will suss it out.

my bet is bent rim... I went straight on at turn 1 sandown over the ripple strip... thought I had knocked a wheel weight off or flat spotted a tyre... turned out to be a slightly bent rim as the tyre place couldn't balance it... it only needs to be a few mm out and will thud like that at certain speeds

haha yeah i went off backwards on turn 1 at Sandown over the ripple strip :domokun:

Swap wheels first, if that doesn't work, get it up on hoist (if you can) and drive it at 80km/h+

If it makes the sound then you know it's drivetrain related. Could be the diff or a loose driveshaft.

Will swap wheels over and then drive it on a hoist :P

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...