Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Engine was built by a shop down bris, usual rb30, 25de head, spool rods, mahle pistons

its dont about 3-4000km's and she's spun a bigend.. going by the colour of the rods were thinking oil starvation? whats everyones thoughts...

tune was 360rwhp on 13psi with a t04z, engine was run in on the dyno and had been running sweet

post-78330-0-68390500-1301381319_thumb.jpg

post-78330-0-83683800-1301381429_thumb.jpg

post-78330-0-83335100-1301381474_thumb.jpg

Edited by 32rrr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359111-rb30-failure/
Share on other sites

pull the girdle off and lay the main bearings out in order and see what they look like.

ps. all the plugs are still in the crank? especialy adjacent to the damaged bearing..

Will be doing that tomorrow and checking everyones still where it should be

i just cant believe how much colour difference there is in the rods

Edited by 32rrr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359111-rb30-failure/#findComment-5735896
Share on other sites

I built this engine. About 2.5 years ago.

N1 pump was used at customer's request. I suggested using a Tomei as we were building two other Tomei pump engines at the time and you can't really go past them for quality/reliability

The N1 pump was brand new. Collar was new and fitted by an engineer. We always check clearance on collars when we fit them.

It had a ROSS balancer too so not a harmonic issue I don't think.

Such a shame, that engine was destined to make some bigger numbers.

Although I can't prove any problem with the N1 pumps, we just stay clear of them now due to the pump failures we have seen.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359111-rb30-failure/#findComment-5738378
Share on other sites

What was the rev limit on this engine and was the limiter regularly hammered? I am interested (worried) because an N1 pump has gone into my RB30 (yet to run). One reputable RB30 builder here won't touch N1 pumps because of a number of failures but others say that they are ok with a rev limit such as i am planning to use: 6,800rpm. Or is the "safe" limit lower on an RB30?? Engine above does not appear to have been highly stressed - planning to run 18 - 20 psi with a GT3540 and looking for around 300awkw.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359111-rb30-failure/#findComment-5738918
Share on other sites

Reved to 7, limiter set at 7250, hardly hit the limiter.

To anyone with a N1 pump on any engine.. i seriously suggest changing it as the pressure gear just isnt thick enough in the area's where it needs to be.. i will use a stock rb30E pump before i use an N1 pump again

Car was run in on the dyno, was going strong untill she went bang, the oil pump is quite spectacular

Crank and 2 of the rods are throw aways, pistons will be reused just have to decide what to do, but for now a bog stock rb30e bottomend has gone in just to get the car mobil again.

post-78330-0-62906000-1301571243_thumb.jpg

when i can see the funnier side to it.. i'll throw up pics around the place, i really have to give it to the spool rods considering the heat damage that they have copped i honestly dont know how they didnt bend and leave the block

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359111-rb30-failure/#findComment-5739959
Share on other sites

I purchased a second hand N1 pump from someone on this forum (he took it out of his car because he was paranoid) and been using it ever since, the pump is 4 years old now and ive been using it in my RB30 for 3 years, its been to 2 different countries and traveled a LOAD of km's with revs up to around 7300 with stock balancer when racing. It has withstanded temps of -10deg where you HAVE to use anti freeze and also hot weather also.

I use a very soft rev limiter with the vipec and stock balancer but i ALLWAYS use the best oil... Motul.

Only different thing i did before installing it was lock tight the screws on the back.

N1 all the way IMO even after 100,000 km (road) its still going strong! just ran a 10 last month.

The N1 pump has served me great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359111-rb30-failure/#findComment-5740613
Share on other sites

Correct me if i am wrong but I THINK that when the gears gave way and siezed the engine must have had some torque behind it and kept spinning inside the pump and just shredded them away...

You can see there was a f load of heat inside there at one point :)

nice main bolts btw

Where the hell did the two flats go?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359111-rb30-failure/#findComment-5740649
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah. OK. I'll say the same thing I say to everyone. You do not have to use 100% throttle all the time.
    • Mainly being afraid of breaking something on something i've poured so much money into haha
    • Hey   ive gone for a terminated harness on my build so selling brand new unused and unopened piggy back harness  https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-141357-elite-2000-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/ Located Bathurst NSW   price $600 + postage     
    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
×
×
  • Create New...