Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Replacement Camshaft Position Sensors?

GlennM35

By GlennM35,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

TWOAR81 Collaborator

TWOAR81

Posted
Posted

Send Scotty a PM

I believe he has some, or contacts to some cheap items. Defiantly don't buy from nissan. Importing from the US is the other option, they are cheap there.

Scotty... Calling Scotty. Got any more?

Just had my stag codes checked after random stalling and a CEL light.

PO135 H02S1. Heater (bank one)

Had my leather seats changed... No heater option in my car but wanted leather)

P0121 TP Sensor/ circuit. ( def needs a clean, didn't want to do it until others are checked)

P0345 CMP sensor circuit / B2

P0235 Turbo Boost Sensor

After reading about stalling issues... Both whilst cold starts... CEL still on but drives fine but wifey won't drive anywhere but family's places( 5kms away) if it stalls.

Codes wiped three starts later the CEL is back up.

Thinking if getting a passenger side crank sensor. Also 1 x plain silver sticker on strut tower.

Any advice of which to target first?

Cheers guys.. 3 years on an still drives like a dream.

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

mym35
mym35

I have had the same issue come up "bank 1 camshaft sensor." Scott was as usual able to help out with both sensors I decided to replace both (aftermarket ) and they are fine after 2 weeks.I can,t speak

PN-Mad
PN-Mad

They are both located in the same respective place on the back of the heads of the engine. Bank one is the drivers side. They have one 10mm bolt holding them in. http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/

joshm35
joshm35

Do the relearn. It will help

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Yep, looks like the camshaft sensor on the passenger side is toast.

Sorry, I only ordered in a small batch and they are now all gone. Not sure I want to deal with them any more as it seems every fault that pops up after I sell one is my fault, and I should fix it for free. Considering I was only doing it to help you blokes out, and making sweet FA out of them, I simply can't be stuffed anymore. Perhaps one day, but the amount I would have to buy in... Not sure I want to sit on $1000's of dollars worth of stock.

Heater fault, this isn't for the seat, the CEL is specifically for engine faults. In this case it is telling you the heater in the o2 sensor is faulty, open or short circuit.

The TP sensor fault... I have only seen that when I unplug the throttle. Cleaning the throttle body/plate won't fix a throttle position sensor fault though, unless the shaft is jamming perhaps?

Who did you get to read the codes? Why couldn't they help you with these issues?

TWOAR81 Collaborator

TWOAR81

Posted
Posted

Fair call too scott. But thanks for the quick reply.

Was Just a question to take some stock off your hands. Will search around

Got brownbill motors in Bayswater to check it, he's not up to date with stags. First he's worked on ( as in plugged it in)

Just eliminating one by one at this stage.

But will check pass side sensor first.

Ta mate

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

No problem Troy, didn't mean it as an outburst, just trying to explain the complexity.

The sensors can turn into a nightmare of a job, and diy replacement can show a few faults that can leave everyone baffled, and me pulling my hair out. I can only do so much for the customer buying the sensors, especially if they are in another state and I have had so many phone calls from guys just trying to sort dangerous engine cut out problems. They buy the sensors expecting that to fix it, but sometimes it just doesn't. It can leave everyone frustrated and me out of pocket.

Craig's car was a prime example. He even shipped it down to me from Sydney to check out the crank signal. I got nowhere with it in 3 days. The consult unit was required for most diagnostic procedures, which is why I bought it just afterwards, even then I don't have the oscilloscope functions to check the waveforms.

I would rather just be tacking stainless together I think, less headaches. :P

  • 2 years later...
Blek Collaborator

Blek

Posted
Posted

Digging up an old thread. My '01 m35 had the 'stalling' issue when decelerating (twice), and once when when coasting in a car park lol. Also had an issue starting the engine when the engine was already at operating temperature; the rpm would rev up to ~1800rpm, then down to 1000, then up 1800, then down to 1000, back up to 1800rpm, then slowly down to a normal idle.

Just had 2 of the sensors replaced from Nissan Hornsby, $405 for both. Hoping this fixes the stalling problem, it's definitely a bit hairy when you lose power steering and you gotta stamp on the brakes!

Blek Collaborator

Blek

Posted
Posted
16 minutes ago, joshm35 said:

Oh just just read it right. You need to do a throttle relearn. If the or you cleaned/touched your throttle body butterfly it needs to be reset.

Yeah I had an error code, which pointed to the sensors, hence the replacement.Got the car back this afternoon so haven't really had a chance to test drive and see if all is OK yet.

We haven't touched the throttle body - though I have read that thread where the butterfly get's filthy as. I believe this was the next point of troubleshooting if my stalling problems persist!

I also read that thread about the throttle re-learn - no harm in giving that a crack. I did notice that everyone's idle seems to be significantly lower than mine! I idle around 1000-850rpm in D with foot on the brakes at the lights. Other people are reporting a normal idle of between 500-650pm!  I kind of just assumed my idle RPM was normal, sheeesh.

  • 3 weeks later...
Blek Collaborator

Blek

Posted
Posted

Throttle re-learn did not help. Though it looks like the throttle body has been sprayed with carbon cleaner (when the ignition coils and spark plugs were replaced. Pretty pissed off) so we're thinking it's possible the circuitry is now buggered. Hunting down a replacement now.

West Grand Master

West

Posted
Posted
50 minutes ago, Blek said:

Throttle re-learn did not help. Though it looks like the throttle body has been sprayed with carbon cleaner (when the ignition coils and spark plugs were replaced. Pretty pissed off) so we're thinking it's possible the circuitry is now buggered. Hunting down a replacement now.

So you still have stalling issue?

Blek Collaborator

Blek

Posted
Posted

I can confidently report I have no more stalling issue. Drove it around all last week, also drove it up to Port Macquarie and back on the weekend (8 hours).

I have a high idle, and RPM surge/drop when turning on a warm engine. Car isn't coasting great when engine is warm either, seems to hold in gear before changing up gears for a better roll. Replacing throttle body to hopefully fix this.

  • 4 years later...
jax_t_ripper Newbie

jax_t_ripper

Posted
Posted

Sorry to Bump this old topic, but.... I was supplied a silver cam sensor for bank 1 after reading and researching I don't think its the correct sensor.... So my question is.... seeing as I purchased bank 1 and 2 sensors... can I use my spare bank 2 sensor in bank one?

 

sorry if this is a silly question I am stilll learning about these engines

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...