Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Send Scotty a PM

I believe he has some, or contacts to some cheap items. Defiantly don't buy from nissan. Importing from the US is the other option, they are cheap there.

Scotty... Calling Scotty. Got any more?

Just had my stag codes checked after random stalling and a CEL light.

PO135 H02S1. Heater (bank one)

Had my leather seats changed... No heater option in my car but wanted leather)

P0121 TP Sensor/ circuit. ( def needs a clean, didn't want to do it until others are checked)

P0345 CMP sensor circuit / B2

P0235 Turbo Boost Sensor

After reading about stalling issues... Both whilst cold starts... CEL still on but drives fine but wifey won't drive anywhere but family's places( 5kms away) if it stalls.

Codes wiped three starts later the CEL is back up.

Thinking if getting a passenger side crank sensor. Also 1 x plain silver sticker on strut tower.

Any advice of which to target first?

Cheers guys.. 3 years on an still drives like a dream.

Yep, looks like the camshaft sensor on the passenger side is toast.

Sorry, I only ordered in a small batch and they are now all gone. Not sure I want to deal with them any more as it seems every fault that pops up after I sell one is my fault, and I should fix it for free. Considering I was only doing it to help you blokes out, and making sweet FA out of them, I simply can't be stuffed anymore. Perhaps one day, but the amount I would have to buy in... Not sure I want to sit on $1000's of dollars worth of stock.

Heater fault, this isn't for the seat, the CEL is specifically for engine faults. In this case it is telling you the heater in the o2 sensor is faulty, open or short circuit.

The TP sensor fault... I have only seen that when I unplug the throttle. Cleaning the throttle body/plate won't fix a throttle position sensor fault though, unless the shaft is jamming perhaps?

Who did you get to read the codes? Why couldn't they help you with these issues?

Fair call too scott. But thanks for the quick reply.

Was Just a question to take some stock off your hands. Will search around

Got brownbill motors in Bayswater to check it, he's not up to date with stags. First he's worked on ( as in plugged it in)

Just eliminating one by one at this stage.

But will check pass side sensor first.

Ta mate

No problem Troy, didn't mean it as an outburst, just trying to explain the complexity.

The sensors can turn into a nightmare of a job, and diy replacement can show a few faults that can leave everyone baffled, and me pulling my hair out. I can only do so much for the customer buying the sensors, especially if they are in another state and I have had so many phone calls from guys just trying to sort dangerous engine cut out problems. They buy the sensors expecting that to fix it, but sometimes it just doesn't. It can leave everyone frustrated and me out of pocket.

Craig's car was a prime example. He even shipped it down to me from Sydney to check out the crank signal. I got nowhere with it in 3 days. The consult unit was required for most diagnostic procedures, which is why I bought it just afterwards, even then I don't have the oscilloscope functions to check the waveforms.

I would rather just be tacking stainless together I think, less headaches. :P

  • 2 years later...

Digging up an old thread. My '01 m35 had the 'stalling' issue when decelerating (twice), and once when when coasting in a car park lol. Also had an issue starting the engine when the engine was already at operating temperature; the rpm would rev up to ~1800rpm, then down to 1000, then up 1800, then down to 1000, back up to 1800rpm, then slowly down to a normal idle.

Just had 2 of the sensors replaced from Nissan Hornsby, $405 for both. Hoping this fixes the stalling problem, it's definitely a bit hairy when you lose power steering and you gotta stamp on the brakes!

16 minutes ago, joshm35 said:

Oh just just read it right. You need to do a throttle relearn. If the or you cleaned/touched your throttle body butterfly it needs to be reset.

Yeah I had an error code, which pointed to the sensors, hence the replacement.Got the car back this afternoon so haven't really had a chance to test drive and see if all is OK yet.

We haven't touched the throttle body - though I have read that thread where the butterfly get's filthy as. I believe this was the next point of troubleshooting if my stalling problems persist!

I also read that thread about the throttle re-learn - no harm in giving that a crack. I did notice that everyone's idle seems to be significantly lower than mine! I idle around 1000-850rpm in D with foot on the brakes at the lights. Other people are reporting a normal idle of between 500-650pm!  I kind of just assumed my idle RPM was normal, sheeesh.

  • 3 weeks later...

Throttle re-learn did not help. Though it looks like the throttle body has been sprayed with carbon cleaner (when the ignition coils and spark plugs were replaced. Pretty pissed off) so we're thinking it's possible the circuitry is now buggered. Hunting down a replacement now.

50 minutes ago, Blek said:

Throttle re-learn did not help. Though it looks like the throttle body has been sprayed with carbon cleaner (when the ignition coils and spark plugs were replaced. Pretty pissed off) so we're thinking it's possible the circuitry is now buggered. Hunting down a replacement now.

So you still have stalling issue?

I can confidently report I have no more stalling issue. Drove it around all last week, also drove it up to Port Macquarie and back on the weekend (8 hours).

I have a high idle, and RPM surge/drop when turning on a warm engine. Car isn't coasting great when engine is warm either, seems to hold in gear before changing up gears for a better roll. Replacing throttle body to hopefully fix this.

  • 4 years later...

Sorry to Bump this old topic, but.... I was supplied a silver cam sensor for bank 1 after reading and researching I don't think its the correct sensor.... So my question is.... seeing as I purchased bank 1 and 2 sensors... can I use my spare bank 2 sensor in bank one?

 

sorry if this is a silly question I am stilll learning about these engines

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HyperGear. Just get a high flow of the stocker. Good, reliable, and should bolt on. Yes it will want things like a retune once done, so you need to factor this in to your spend too.
    • Hi. Iam looking for some "cheaper" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO. I do not want "big" power just better reliability than the stock turbo which is "fot now" good but is old and i do not think it has "easy" life. One the Skyline here running some "temu" china Turbo but i dont trust those... Thanks!  
    • Hi guys, Making some space/cleaning up. A whole heap of random OEM R33 GTR parts and other random bits and bobs. I will update this thread as I go. Parts are located in Moorebank NSW 2170. Pickup preferred but will post at buyers expense. Prices are negotiable. If they don’t sell it will go in the bin. Item 1: BOV return pipe. $40 Item 2: RB26 cam gears. $20 Item 3: R33 GTR torque split, oil temp, boost centre gauge. $100 Item 4: RB26 fuel rail x 2. $20 each Item 5: RB26 Recirc valves. $50 Item 6: OEM upper front arms. $20 Item 7: Royal Purple Max Gear 75w-140 1 quart/946 ml x 5. $50 each or 5 for $200. Item 8: OS Giken 80w-250 diff oil 1 litre. $25 Item 9 Eibach springs. ers-11-140-60-0140. $100 https://www.streetfx.com.au/eib140-60-0060-eibach-ers-140mm-length-x-60mm-id-coil-over-spring?_ga_campaignid=22235933977&_ga_adgroupid=180146800292&_ga_keyword=&_ga_device=m&_ga_target=pla-295238231169&_ga_locint=&_ga_locphy=9071723&_ga_matchtype=&_ga_network=g&_ga_device=m&_ga_placement=&_gcl_id=CjwKCAjwlt7GBhAvEiwAKal0cvkVE_hstv24cDiaICsIk1oznH9zAoJf3By6vR3Tpe7jmByqM6JFHBoCZYAQAvD_BwE&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22235933977&gbraid=0AAAAADPiTbo1xAuvnjIWWYnezivf-BUSY&gclid=CjwKCAjwlt7GBhAvEiwAKal0cvkVE_hstv24cDiaICsIk1oznH9zAoJf3By6vR3Tpe7jmByqM6JFHBoCZYAQAvD_BwE    
    • That's kind of what I was getting at saying you'd be here soon regarding length etc being able to add additional restriction.  My assumption (possible donkeys of you and mption) is that the length of hose to an oil cooler, and back, isn't going to be that huge of a loss. Typically you're talking about 1.5m of total length. And so far everyone in our world hasn't had issues with oil not being able to get to a cooler and back, it's more been, how the heck do we get the oil out of the head and back down to the bottom? I'd nearly hazard a guess the biggest issue people have with oil cooling and oil supply, is being able to get the heat out at the cooler itself (not enough air flow, too small of a cooler etc) Also, when people mount them wrong and make really awesome air traps so they've dramatically diminished the cooling capacity.
    • I will rebutt this and the preceding point from Dose....but without doing any calcs to demonstrate anything and without knowing that I am right or wrong. But... The flow capacity of a fluid transfer system is not limited by the smallest orifice or section of conduit in that system, unless it is drastically smaller than the rest of the system. OK, I use the word drastically perhaps with too much emphasis, but let's drill down on what I really mean. The flow capacity of the system is the result of the sum of the restrictions of the entire system. So, to make an extreme example, if you have a network with 3" pipe everywhere (and let's say a total length of only a few metres) and that 12mm ID restriction of the oil filter connection being the obvious restriction, then for any given amount of pressure available, the vast majority of all the pressure drop in the system is going to occur in the 12mm restriction. But.... increase the length of the 3" pipeline to, say 1000m, and suddenly the pipe pressure loss will likely add up to either be in the same order of magnitude, possibly even exceeding that of the 12mm restriction. Now the 12mm restriction starts to matter less. Translate this to the actual engine, actual oil cooler hose sizing, etc etc, and perhaps: The pressure loss caused by flowing through the narrow section (being the 12mm oil filter port, and perhaps any internal engine oil flow pathways associated with it) is a certain number. The pressure loss through, say, -12 hoses out to the cooler and back is negligible, but The pressure loss through -10 hoses out to the cooler, at the exact same length as the above, starts to become a decent fraction of the loss through the 12mm stuff at the filter port. Maybe even it starts to exceed it. I could actually do these calcs if I knew 1) how much oil was actually flowing in the line, 2) gave enough of a f**k to do things that I hate doing for work, voluntarily for a hypothetical discussion. Anyway - I reiterate. It's not the narrowest port that necessarily determines how much it can all flow. It is the sum. A long enough length of seemingly fat enough pipe can still cause more loss than a semmingly dominant small bore restriction.
×
×
  • Create New...