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M35 Replacement Camshaft Position Sensors?

GlennM35

By GlennM35,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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TWOAR81 Collaborator

TWOAR81

Posted
Posted

Send Scotty a PM

I believe he has some, or contacts to some cheap items. Defiantly don't buy from nissan. Importing from the US is the other option, they are cheap there.

Scotty... Calling Scotty. Got any more?

Just had my stag codes checked after random stalling and a CEL light.

PO135 H02S1. Heater (bank one)

Had my leather seats changed... No heater option in my car but wanted leather)

P0121 TP Sensor/ circuit. ( def needs a clean, didn't want to do it until others are checked)

P0345 CMP sensor circuit / B2

P0235 Turbo Boost Sensor

After reading about stalling issues... Both whilst cold starts... CEL still on but drives fine but wifey won't drive anywhere but family's places( 5kms away) if it stalls.

Codes wiped three starts later the CEL is back up.

Thinking if getting a passenger side crank sensor. Also 1 x plain silver sticker on strut tower.

Any advice of which to target first?

Cheers guys.. 3 years on an still drives like a dream.

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mym35
mym35

I have had the same issue come up "bank 1 camshaft sensor." Scott was as usual able to help out with both sensors I decided to replace both (aftermarket ) and they are fine after 2 weeks.I can,t speak

PN-Mad
PN-Mad

They are both located in the same respective place on the back of the heads of the engine. Bank one is the drivers side. They have one 10mm bolt holding them in. http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/

joshm35
joshm35

Do the relearn. It will help

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Yep, looks like the camshaft sensor on the passenger side is toast.

Sorry, I only ordered in a small batch and they are now all gone. Not sure I want to deal with them any more as it seems every fault that pops up after I sell one is my fault, and I should fix it for free. Considering I was only doing it to help you blokes out, and making sweet FA out of them, I simply can't be stuffed anymore. Perhaps one day, but the amount I would have to buy in... Not sure I want to sit on $1000's of dollars worth of stock.

Heater fault, this isn't for the seat, the CEL is specifically for engine faults. In this case it is telling you the heater in the o2 sensor is faulty, open or short circuit.

The TP sensor fault... I have only seen that when I unplug the throttle. Cleaning the throttle body/plate won't fix a throttle position sensor fault though, unless the shaft is jamming perhaps?

Who did you get to read the codes? Why couldn't they help you with these issues?

TWOAR81 Collaborator

TWOAR81

Posted
Posted

Fair call too scott. But thanks for the quick reply.

Was Just a question to take some stock off your hands. Will search around

Got brownbill motors in Bayswater to check it, he's not up to date with stags. First he's worked on ( as in plugged it in)

Just eliminating one by one at this stage.

But will check pass side sensor first.

Ta mate

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

No problem Troy, didn't mean it as an outburst, just trying to explain the complexity.

The sensors can turn into a nightmare of a job, and diy replacement can show a few faults that can leave everyone baffled, and me pulling my hair out. I can only do so much for the customer buying the sensors, especially if they are in another state and I have had so many phone calls from guys just trying to sort dangerous engine cut out problems. They buy the sensors expecting that to fix it, but sometimes it just doesn't. It can leave everyone frustrated and me out of pocket.

Craig's car was a prime example. He even shipped it down to me from Sydney to check out the crank signal. I got nowhere with it in 3 days. The consult unit was required for most diagnostic procedures, which is why I bought it just afterwards, even then I don't have the oscilloscope functions to check the waveforms.

I would rather just be tacking stainless together I think, less headaches. :P

  • 2 years later...
Blek Collaborator

Blek

Posted
Posted

Digging up an old thread. My '01 m35 had the 'stalling' issue when decelerating (twice), and once when when coasting in a car park lol. Also had an issue starting the engine when the engine was already at operating temperature; the rpm would rev up to ~1800rpm, then down to 1000, then up 1800, then down to 1000, back up to 1800rpm, then slowly down to a normal idle.

Just had 2 of the sensors replaced from Nissan Hornsby, $405 for both. Hoping this fixes the stalling problem, it's definitely a bit hairy when you lose power steering and you gotta stamp on the brakes!

Blek Collaborator

Blek

Posted
Posted
16 minutes ago, joshm35 said:

Oh just just read it right. You need to do a throttle relearn. If the or you cleaned/touched your throttle body butterfly it needs to be reset.

Yeah I had an error code, which pointed to the sensors, hence the replacement.Got the car back this afternoon so haven't really had a chance to test drive and see if all is OK yet.

We haven't touched the throttle body - though I have read that thread where the butterfly get's filthy as. I believe this was the next point of troubleshooting if my stalling problems persist!

I also read that thread about the throttle re-learn - no harm in giving that a crack. I did notice that everyone's idle seems to be significantly lower than mine! I idle around 1000-850rpm in D with foot on the brakes at the lights. Other people are reporting a normal idle of between 500-650pm!  I kind of just assumed my idle RPM was normal, sheeesh.

  • 3 weeks later...
Blek Collaborator

Blek

Posted
Posted

Throttle re-learn did not help. Though it looks like the throttle body has been sprayed with carbon cleaner (when the ignition coils and spark plugs were replaced. Pretty pissed off) so we're thinking it's possible the circuitry is now buggered. Hunting down a replacement now.

West Grand Master

West

Posted
Posted
50 minutes ago, Blek said:

Throttle re-learn did not help. Though it looks like the throttle body has been sprayed with carbon cleaner (when the ignition coils and spark plugs were replaced. Pretty pissed off) so we're thinking it's possible the circuitry is now buggered. Hunting down a replacement now.

So you still have stalling issue?

Blek Collaborator

Blek

Posted
Posted

I can confidently report I have no more stalling issue. Drove it around all last week, also drove it up to Port Macquarie and back on the weekend (8 hours).

I have a high idle, and RPM surge/drop when turning on a warm engine. Car isn't coasting great when engine is warm either, seems to hold in gear before changing up gears for a better roll. Replacing throttle body to hopefully fix this.

  • 4 years later...
jax_t_ripper Newbie

jax_t_ripper

Posted
Posted

Sorry to Bump this old topic, but.... I was supplied a silver cam sensor for bank 1 after reading and researching I don't think its the correct sensor.... So my question is.... seeing as I purchased bank 1 and 2 sensors... can I use my spare bank 2 sensor in bank one?

 

sorry if this is a silly question I am stilll learning about these engines

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