Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Jun,

Your talent and professionalism is outstanding. The composition and lighting of the photos are amazing, especially the 'in motion' shots. The technique to take those 'in motion' photos was fascinating.

I enjoyed the entire photo shoot experience.

Thanks Jun!

Cheers

Matt

Hi Jun,

Your talent and professionalism is outstanding. The composition and lighting of the photos are amazing, especially the 'in motion' shots. The technique to take those 'in motion' photos was fascinating.

I enjoyed the entire photo shoot experience.

Thanks Jun!

Cheers

Matt

My Pleasure man, was an awesome car to shoot... The white + Car black rims is a challenge in itself but i think we pulled it off :-)

Hi All,

Just wanted to share issue 134 which is in release soon with a couple of SAU Cars.

Jason Vesty's R33 and Matt Tangs R34.

Matt Tangs GTR

Looks like I will be buying this edition HPI mag. :)

Congrats to the owners for their efforts, and the photographer for amazing photos shots. :worship:

Edited by VNS 24

Jun, awesome photos as always mate! I've looked up to you for years.

One question though, is it just me or can I see the hands of the person pushing the car in this shot? Just behind the roll cage? I might just be seeing things.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=334307

Edited by NA_Goodness

Jun, awesome photos as always mate! I've looked up to you for years.

One question though, is it just me or can I see the hands of the person pushing the car in this shot? Just behind the roll cage? I might just be seeing things.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=334307

Thanks bro, it probably should pay for me to update my website, it hasnt been updated in a couple of years.. most of my recent stuff is on facebook.. www.facebook.com/junsawa

Hmm about your question, quite possibly :P You have good eyes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...