Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's very easy to put together braided lines, the only issue as mentioned earlier is any stray wire messes up the thread in the fittings = chop the line and bin the fitting. You'll only do it once.

Twin feed or single, either way I would be tuning with individual EGT. The cost is negligible and they're easily removed once the car is tuned. I have very large corrections, eg the largest trim is -4'ish% to +13% on one cylinder (not 6), depending on manifold pressure.

How accurate are the sensors? There would be a discrepancy between them too right? What unit do you use to read/log the temps and what do you plug the hole with when you are finished? I guess there is variation with injector flow if the tune is out that much between cylinders...

I have a V6 so twin rails. I just finished making a twin Walbro intank setup with -6 lines to each rail, I didn't want issues with one pump failing and not knowing so this way, and with 2 one way valves before the reg, I can separate the flow to each rail completely. That way 3 injectors will fail completely if one pump goes. I will only have one return from the reg though. All teflon lines as i'm running Eflex.

post-63525-0-24862300-1302492512_thumb.jpg

The idea is to eliminate pressure drop yes, but the actual problem is transience between individual cylinder fuel pressure etc.

twin entry rail goes some way to making this problem better.

obviously you dont have a hugely diminishing fuel pressure over the length of the rail, as the FPR controls the global rail pressure (to a degree).

How accurate are the sensors? There would be a discrepancy between them too right? What unit do you use to read/log the temps and what do you plug the hole with when you are finished? I guess there is variation with injector flow if the tune is out that much between cylinders...

The thermocouples are accurate to within a couple of degrees - far more accurate than required. Plugging the hole is easy using a bung. There are plenty of cheap logging options but I was using Innovate gear.

The injectors tested within a couple percent before installing, and a second motor with a completely different set-up (not my car) had near on identical results with different logging gear.

I would encourage any modifier to find out for themselves, cheap insurance and far better than relying on (untested) forum theory to tell you where to stick your highest flowing injector.

  • 5 months later...

it's a piece of cake mate. remove the current fuel line between fuel filter and rail. now put on a new shorter line which feeds a Y piece (into the bottom of the Y). to the top of the Y you add 2 new fuel lines, run one to the back of the rail and one to the front. if you are really pedantic try and keep them the same length. then mount the reg on the drivers side strut tower, run a new reg feed from the middle port on the fuel rail, then return from the bottom of the reg into the fuel return line back to tank. easy. can use dash fittings and braided hose if you like, or otherwise just normal hose barbs and 8mm fuel hose with fuel hose clamps is fine too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...