Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just looking at plug and play ecus for my r33 gtr..

And came across this one (link to follow) my gtr just has 3,3/4 inch ss exhaust a k&n panel filter and thats it well all i know of anyway...

Here is link is it a good idea??

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260763289031

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360255-thoughts-on-this-ecu/
Share on other sites

See thats what i was thinking too (Ie i am worried about our weaker fuels) just wanted to see what others thought of it before i took the plunge....

take the plunge you will love it!!!

just beware the modding bug, im about to swap turbos hahaha had the car a yr :P

I wouldn't risk installing anything like this in Aus, cos of the huge differences in fuels, climates etc between us and Japan. As stated above, best to get yourself a PowerFC or something similar and get the ECU tuned specifically for your engine, better investment to spend that extra bit of cash now rather than potentially destroy an engine.

So you guys reckon i should just save up the extra say $800 ish and get the power fc to be safe??.....

Dont plan on going mental with mds (I cant afford too!!) i just figure it runs rich anyway from the factory so why not make the most of the fuel being burnt and get a better ecu...

Just to note i did a ecu test (Ie the plug under the dashed pinned together etc and only got fault code 55 (which means no faults) i thougth i had a dodgy 02 sensor and thats why it stunk so much of fuel....

The standard ECU tends to go a bit silly/overboard with fuelling when the boost is increased that is why you would be getting a rich mix, best just to play it safe mate - spend the extra to get it done right the first time.

You will not only get more power but way better fuel economy as well - win, win.

hi

the ECU you are looking at on ebay is un-tunable, that is, you cannot edit the tune, update it, change it etc

it is a once only tune and you are stuck with whatever settings are on there

ie its junk and you cant use it

options such as the powerfc, vipec, motec, autronic, nistune etc let you tune the car as you want

so you can buy it, put it in your car, have your tuner "tune" it and set it up to suit your car

remaps (which is what is in the ebay ad) are basically a flash edit of the standard ECU

but the problem is no one can update the flash tune, so its basically read-only

only select few could edit that map, and it wouldn't be worth it

for a GTR, the powerfc is prefect and well worth every $

and you can resell them for the same price you basically but it for

for info on the powerfc check my signature for the PowerFC FAQ

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...