Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I recently bought myself a r32 gtr with some mods already done to it such as 550cc injectors, full 3 inch exhaust, hks induction kit, boost controller and some other stuff.

it's got stock ceramic turbo's but has been dyno-ed and mapped by RisingSunPerformance (14,5psi) 408,3 HP @ 1 bar of boost

Considering it's going to be used for track days, I dont think the ceramic turbine will last long at 1 bar of boost, so I'm thinking about rebuilding it with steel internals.

But do I need a remap again if I want to run 1,2 bar of boost?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360474-remap-after-boost-increase/
Share on other sites

I just got the car 2 days ago, I got lots of paperwork including receipt from RSP

anyway here it is

j6llk6.jpg

speclist far as I know

HKS mushroom filters

Toad alarm system

Nismo lower strutbrace

Poly bushed upper mounts

Rising Sun Performance custom chip

Bilstein dampers

splitfire coilpacks

Denso purple top 550cc injectors

steel braided brake hoses

engine brace

Greddy PRofec B spec-II boostcontroller

3 inch full exhaust

Havent checked the turbo's yet so it may be upgraded ones,

Back to the original question ...

That depends.

If you want to run much more boost, the old mapping might run out of it's load scale.

Meaning the ECU uses the last 'known' 'cell' for ignition and fuelling which might lead to knock or/and lean mixture.

Sounds quite technical .. so in your case I'd say 'yes' ... remap!

u better off getting an aftermarket ecu if u plan on further mods.. a chipped ecu will need to be re-flased each time you make significant changes..

if u handy with a spanner, take off your induction kit and see if can get a better look at the front turbo, maybe able to identify the turbo

also re: dyno graph, do u have one showing what boost was being run.. u based in the uk??

No I'm from Holland, I was told by the previous owner (from UK) the 408hp was at 1 bar of boost, and he got me another dyno read out (345hp or so) wich believed to be at .75 bar of boost.

I will take a look at the turbo's tomorrow,

as for the boost. If i find out it's just stock turbo's then I think the best way is just get them rebuilt with steel internals and not go further than 1 bar.

Always a good idea to get the ecu remapped or at least checked when you up the boost. I increased my mid range by 2psi and when I took it in the tuner said it was pinging heavily and that it was good I brought it in. $2-400 to ensure everythings ok is cheap compared to the alternatives if something goes wrong.

You can get 300KW from the stock twins, but only with a tonne of supporting mods such that you only run 1 bar at most, which isn't the case so definitely you'll want to get a proper ECU if you plan to up to 1.2, and you'll be a lot safer with what you have now with a proper map.

You can get 300KW from the stock twins, but only with a tonne of supporting mods such that you only run 1 bar at most, which isn't the case so definitely you'll want to get a proper ECU if you plan to up to 1.2, and you'll be a lot safer with what you have now with a proper map.

all the supporting mods wont change the fact stock turbo will still need more than 1bar boost to see anywhere close to 300kw.. 1.2/1.3 bar will see it coming close, hell u could up it to 1.5 bar and have it running with little more gain

A valid point,

HP and 'at the clutch' makes for big figures ... :)

On the other side, I see a lot of dyno graphs form OZ with speed in km/h on the X-Axes.

I really don't understand what this is for since I'm interested in at what rpm the engine makes

what power/boost.

Cheers from London ...

Never quite understood anyone who would tune on S_HP when it's a calculated 'guess' as to the clutch power - rather than a 'real' figure at the wheels ..

I guess it makes the owner happy, but beyond that?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...