Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive always wanted to replace the orange plastic indicator lenses on my front bar of my series 2 with the same lense as the driving light uses, its been done using plastic of different sorts but I want to use the glass ones so it looks the same...

I have some spare glass lenses, but they need to be cut down to fit, all of the glaziers and glass artsits Ive shown them to cant or wont attempt to cut it... so the only thing I can think of to get this done was to use a diamond hole saw Ive searched for a while to see if someone has use these on headlight lenses fearing that I would just end up breaking the glass, but it seems it may be possible, I found a thread where they were modifying BMW headlights to use with projector install.

so Im gonna have a go at this, Ive already sourced the diamond hole saw, the guy below is basically using the exact same method I was going to use, so it atleast seems Im on the right track...

If anyone has any tips or advice please let us know...

if it works out well I may have a diamond hole saw for sale barely used and the right size so others can do this mod as well...

5C) Attach the diamond-plated hole saw and set the drill to its slowest speed. The recommended speed is about 160 to 180 RPM. We achieved a good result despite the drill press’s minimum speed of 250 RPM.

2.75” or 70 mm diameter hole saw to cut glass

HoleSaw1.t.JPG HoleSaw2.t.JPG

5D) Build a jig with wood scraps to secure the inner lens. Position two wood blocks so they fit into the notches of the lens and screw them down into the wood base. Lens goes face down so it can hold water.

5E) Move the hole saw down to position where your hole will be cut. Clamp the whole assembly onto the drill press when you’re satisfied with the positioning.

Drill press setup

DrillPress1.t.JPG

5F) Fill the lens with water before you drill. However, the hole saw manufacturer recommends using a diamond tool coolant. I found water worked just fine. Either way, the water or coolant is absolutely necessary to:

– Cool the hole saw

– Lubricate the cutting surface

– Suspend glass dust

Fill her up

DrillPress2.t.JPG

5G) Start drilling and use as little pressure as possible. Have patience because it will take a couple of minutes to go through each piece of glass. IIRC, the recommended pressure at the cutting surface is 2 lbs. Let the drill do the work and every so often, raise the hole saw to let water settle. Once you hit the wood base, lift up and shut off the drill.

Glass drilling – click to play (2.33 MB AVI clip)

HoleSawCutting.t.JPG

White liquid is water mixed with glass dust

DrillPress3.t.JPG

The center piece – remove it before you do the next one (we neglected to do so after the first one)

DrillPress4.t.JPG

5H) Remove the lens and rinse. Smooth down the cut edge with waterproof sandpaper under lukewarm running water. Repeat for the other lens.

Not bad for glass cutting virgins smile.gif

LensPupil1.t.JPG

5J) Put the lens back into the housing glass and apply black silicone to hold it in place. The two tabs hold it in place but it could rattle so the silicone is strongly recommended. It’s also a good fix in case one of the tabs is broken which is circled in red below.

Silicone the sides only

LensPupil3.t.JPG LensPupil4.t.JPG LensPupil2.t.JPG LensPupil5.t.JPG

I did some searching a while back when I read Phil's original thread about attempting this and came across these pics on JDM Styling (I think), forgot i had them on my phone.

Just goes to show it can and has been done on a S2. After the glass cutting is done does anyone know what kind of bulbs can be used? as in if a big orange bulb is put behind the clear will it just look orange again or will it be far enough back to not stand out?

post-31195-0-40795300-1302694057_thumb.jpg

post-31195-0-78329900-1302694089_thumb.jpg

Philips make a "silver vision" indicator bulb. Whole thing is silver but flashes organge, that's what I was planning on using.

The only problem I can see is with them, they are cutting the hole on a flat surface. Because our glass curves at the edges, you have to cut on this edge. Not to sure how that will go.

It's a pain in the ass to cut. So annoying that a glass place won't do it. I wouldn't even care if they gave it a shot and if it smashed, it smashed. The fact every one just says "it can't be cut" pisses me off.

  • Like 1
  On 14/04/2011 at 12:38 AM, DaveO74 said:

Dale how bout psi parts make the whole thing? It's not like your busy with other stuff or anything hahahaha

Forgive my ignorance I've never had a standard bar on my car. But how different are the two lenses (indicator and parker) in size or shape?

As we could probably do this in plastic without too much trouble.

I can't see why a plastic lense wouldn't work, you would have to get the "pattern" or lines or whatever you want to call it though as I think it would look a bit funny and cheap with just a flat clear piece of plastic/perspex there.

Maybe one of us should donate a set to psi parts so they can see what they can come up with? Dunno how much a second set is worth though???? If cheap enough I'm willing to send them a set, anyone know how much they go for?

  On 13/04/2011 at 11:29 AM, DaveO74 said:

I did some searching a while back when I read Phil's original thread about attempting this and came across these pics on JDM Styling (I think), forgot i had them on my phone.

Just goes to show it can and has been done on a S2. After the glass cutting is done does anyone know what kind of bulbs can be used? as in if a big orange bulb is put behind the clear will it just look orange again or will it be far enough back to not stand out?

thats pepsinators car here in adelaide, theyre not actually tinted, he did that in photoshop

I thought the dullness to the indicator side was because the reflector isnt as shiny and bright as in the driving light.... I wonder if I can fit the reflector into the indicator side as well so they look the same...

OK, so I did a little reading on the difference between the two lights and what I'm thinking is that we could possibly use the original orange cover and re-produce this in the exact same size/shape/pattern but in a clear plastic (blow molded). I'm unsure how close we can get to the glass finish, but fitting would be like OEM as we would have it CNC'ed just like we have our clear cam covers done. I thought about doing the fog light in the same process (to keep both identical) but from what I've seen it will get pretty messy removing the glass, which has to be heated to soften the glue.

Is this something that you guys would want, or do you prefer the glass option?

IMO I don't think it has to be glass, as I imagine a glass lens would be a lot more expensive to reproduce??? But I can't speak for the other guys

But as I said above it would have to have the pattern to it and not just flat clear plastic as it would just look as though a piece of Perspex was thrown in there.

Also as 75coupe said it my be worth investigating how to get the reflector part in there behind the lense so they both look the same.

I am due to go to a skyline wreckers in the next week or so for a couple of little parts and I am happy to donate a set if I can get them. PM me if you are interested Dale.

Yeah the pattern will be exactly the same as the orange one. I'm keen to get a hold of the orange lens and the surrounding bracket to look at mounting, only then will I be able to determine the manufacturing requirements and projected costs vs. batch size.

I think plastic would be fine as long as it looks close enough to the glass. Doesn't have to be identical, but as long as from a bit of a distance it looks the same.

I literally through the orange lenses out the other day lol.

I have a spare orange lense that will be thrown away if you need it Dale....

Im still keen to see if I can cut down the glass lense and use the same reflector since Ive have all the parts...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...