Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you will find that can only weld steel.....actually you can weld aluminium with it, but the welds dont turn out all that well for the amps the machine can pump out. they look more like a mig weld, but if steel is all you want to do, it should be fine. If you also want to do aluminium, look for a ac/dc machine.

Great thread,

I just bought a Cigweld tranmig 165 a few weeks ago and and just playing with it at the moment and trying to teach myself but hope to do a course next month.

Theres plenty of info on the net about this stuff but I have learnt so much for from practise and good advise from a few forums.

so this would be fine for basic exhaust pipe, body work and sheet metal plus some alloy but the welds will look ugly?

By the sound of it this would be a good beginner machine.

Just to clarify - welds on ally will look ugly. Welds on steel should come out fine

I just fired up my ebay special stick / TIG today to finish fitting brakes to my son's go-kart. From the first weld they all came out looking pretty good. Normally after not using the welder for 6 months or more, I need to practice to get nice welds. These all came out beautiful (except the one where I blew a hole in the thin tube from leaving the rod in one place too long).

As for stick welding being useless - that's horse hockey. You can do a hell of a lot with stick, only limited with very thin stuff. Anything down to 1.6mm is pretty easy for an average back yarder to weld with a 2.5mm rod. I still find the old stick very versatile, and only bother with the hassle of TIG when I want to make sure the welds look perfect, or on a tricky weld where the stick is likely to not work for me.

That's speaking as a rank amateur welder. Pro boilermakers can weld with anything and make it look good.

Manymoons ago I was welding compressor tanks with stick welders. we'd grind a 45 degree V into both ends and run 3 continuos welds around them. Also welded all fittings and bungs in with the stick. I beleive the guys there still weld that way.

I've just bought a new welder last minute eofy choice.

3 phase, 315amp AC/DC with all the bells n whistles watercooler blah blah.

Works a treat.

My old AC/DC 160amp welder is up for sale. It's a pretty gutsy little machine has no problem doing 8-10mm alloy

No problem chris.

It's a toolex industrial series.

AC/DC

2T/4T trigger and HF switching

Adjustable base current

Adjustable pre gas

Adjustable slope down amperage

Adjustable AC frequency

Has a new gas cooled BOC flexi head lead kit that's 6m long and done about 2 weeks work.

Your welcome to come and try it out see if you like the way it welds. Given me a couple of good years welding but I needed a 3 phase welder and water cooler for some of the stuff I do now.

Im a fridgy so i do alot of work with copper so if you want any tips with a oxy or copper let me know.

Practice makes perfect. I have used mig and tig welders before and i remember the first time i tried welding 2 chairs together for my dog to sleep on and melted a holes in everything from the frame to the mat i was welding on so dont worry if it takes you a while.

make sure you invest in good personal protection clothing....

  • 2 months later...

Hey guys little bit of a thread ressurection, was trolling the forums & found this one.

The old man & I were thinking of buying a welder that had a bit hor grunt & stability than our current arc welder.

Has anyone heard of these, and if so any thoughts???

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-AC-DC-PULSE-TIG-MMA-INVERTER-WELDER-PLASMA-CUTTER-/230621596130?pt=AU_Welding&hash=item35b21e49e2

although they can be horribly expensive, i highly recommend Ferronius welders. I have 2, i have a full inverter 130 amp caddy with tig, which can hold the same stable bulsewidth over a 100m lead length and i have a 175 amp mig welder. They are an exceptional piece of equiptment and the caddy welders are well worth the look for people starting to weld at home. There isnt much you cant weld around the home with a 2.5GP rod or if it calls for it, tig ;)

TP125-10VRD caddy welder is a great place to start, and its fronnius ;)

tig capability, VRD, inverted, runs on a 10 amp 230-240v mains supply and can weld up to 5mm cellulose rods, but i wouldnt recommend that lol

  • 11 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Havent been on this forum for a while now but this thread caught my eye..

Im a sheety by trade but have been doing boilermaking for nearly 4 years now so have done alot of MIG, TIG and ARC welding.

30ed32- TIG's can also be used as an ARC welder, you just need to remove the TIG torch and attatch the ARC hand piece and change a couple of settings depending on what machine you have.

I have a UNI TIG AC/DC welder http://www.bridgeswa...p?ProductID=217 that i use at home mostly just to make things for myself. Its packed with heaps of features and even has a wheel on the torch (like a mouse wheel) to adjust the amps.

A tip i havent seen anyone say yet is to keep your hands as steady as you can.. You can be the best welder but if your hands are moving around and it dosnt need to be much at all (a few mm) then the weld pool will follow and you will end up with a weld that can be messy. I always try to support my arms on something, like ill use my elbow as a pivot point or if there ist anything to rest on then ill tuck my arms into my chest area just to keep steady.

The DC TIG's can be good to use but for a first timer they can be frustrating. The reason is that they are a scratch start, meaning that you need to scratch the tungsten tip on the work to strike an ark. When you're learning to TIG you will end up grinding and re grinding the tungsten enough times to drive you crazy. If the tip isnt a sharp point then the arc will wander around and will make it hard to control the weld pool. AC/DC has HF (high frequency) start meaning that when you press the button (or foot pedal) then the arc will automatically start or jump to the workpiece without touching it, plus with AC you can weld ally.

And 1 last thing for now that a few people dont know.. When you finish your TIG weld and you get that little pin hole in the center of the weld pool, that is from the arc suddenly stopping. If your TIG has a downslope setting you can turn it up a little bit to stop that from happening. For those that dont know, the downslope can be used to make the arc slowly fade out instead of a sudden stop. Just remember to turn up the post gas flow aswell if you turn up the downslope

Steady hands are a must. I think that's where the experience comes in. Wherever possible, I also use surrounding bench / vice , structure to steady my hands and it makes a huge difference. I look at some of the work the boom welders at work are putting out (solid wire) and it's pure art. The photo below shows dragline boom lacing to chord welds after capping. These are 6" and 8" pipes being welded onto a 14" main chord.

Some of the modern DC TIG machines also have a HF start. My cheap ebay unit does, and it makes it very easy to strike the arc. I find TIG the most fiddly, but it gives good welds. Stick is pretty straight forward, and can give you very good welds, specially if the work piece is properly prepped, correct orientation etc.

I bought myself a MIG a few months back and that thing is cheating. It's just point and shoot, and I wonder why I didn't get one sooner. Now actually looking for welding projects instead of shying away from them.

post-266-0-59500600-1351394717_thumb.jpg

Edited by warps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...