R34 Gtt Basic Mods

[ooNiCoo]

I have currently done up my R34 GTT with these mods I have listed below. Need advice on what other essential parts I need to get before i proceed on to the next level of upgrades. For now, I just want it to be done up till the stage where the ECU comes in and is dyno tuned. Parts list:

- Blitz FMIC

- HKS BOV

- Greddy BC

- Dump Pipe

- Metal Cat 100cell (To be installed)

- HKS Exhaust

- Fuel Pump & Fuel Regulator (To be installed)

- HKS Pod Filter

- HKS Coilovers

- Race Clutch (Brand unknown)

- ECU (To be bought and installed)

If there are other essential and important parts that need to be installed up to this point, please do let me know. thanks!

[ooNiCoo]

Sorry, got some info wrong, my dump pipe is actually an X-Force and my Exhaust is a Nismo. =)

[luvpsi]

i would get a ecu i reccomend a power fc or vipec and also get yourself a turbotech boost controller or a EBC. get it tuned and up the boost to a safe level for the stock turbo. then when your ready to upgrade the turbo choose the turbo to suit your power goal and get injectors and Z32 afm to suit then you should be set

[PM-R33]

I have currently done up my R34 GTT with these mods I have listed below. Need advice on what other essential parts I need to get before i proceed on to the next level of upgrades. For now, I just want it to be done up till the stage where the ECU comes in and is dyno tuned. Parts list:

- Blitz FMIC

- HKS BOV

- Greddy BC

- Dump Pipe

- Metal Cat 100cell (To be installed)

- HKS Exhaust

- Fuel Pump & Fuel Regulator (To be installed)

- HKS Pod Filter

- HKS Coilovers

- Race Clutch (Brand unknown)

- ECU (To be bought and installed)

If there are other essential and important parts that need to be installed up to this point, please do let me know. thanks!

WHY?! WHY?! WHY?! WHY?!

Sell it and put it towards the ECU.

[Simon-S14]

nistune all the way

[KiwiRS4T]

Sell the fuel reg. bov and pod (get a high flow panel filter for your stock airbox) and get a Nistune, PFC or Vipec ecu.

Posted Yesterday, 06:55 PM from the Stagea section (S2 Stagea same engine as GTT - stock fuel reg, bov and airbox):

3" turbo back, k&n panel filter, 10psi = 135kW

Nistune, 11psi = 175kW

Pretty happy with that. Much smoother power delivery too.

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[Rolls]

nistune all the way

1. As above get a nistune installed, as good as aftermarket, looks stock (chip in your ecu), is cheap and everyone can tune them, find a good tuner, if in VIC I highly recommend STATUS, if in SA I recommend Boostworx

2. Sell the fuel reg as its completely unnecessary, makes tuning difficult and the stock one is ample for 300kw+

3. Sell the pod and get highflow panel filter as pods suck due to heat soak.

4. Get good tyres, I recommend federal 595evo/rpm for cheap performance

5. Get proper rated springs in your susp for aussie roads, no doubt HKS are 8kg or something stupid, aim for 4-5kg max for aussie roads, Tein super street are much better, or for the legal stock look go bilstein shocks and whiteline springs (will pass defect inspection if legal height)

This will be good for ~200kw ish with good streetable handling.

Future mods:

Get GTR injectors or equiv, Z32 AFM and a highflow turbo for the stock look that makes 250kw and will pass an EPA/defect inspection, if you don't care about getting defected and looking stock look towards a GT3076 turbo and make ~300kw

Edited April 21, 2011 by Rolls

[ooNiCoo]

Sell the fuel reg. bov and pod (get a high flow panel filter for your stock airbox) and get a Nistune, PFC or Vipec ecu.

Posted Yesterday, 06:55 PM from the Stagea section (S2 Stagea same engine as GTT - stock fuel reg, bov and airbox):

3" turbo back, k&n panel filter, 10psi = 135kW

Nistune, 11psi = 175kW

Pretty happy with that. Much smoother power delivery too.

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I just got the BOV brand new. Its a HKS SQV3. Sell it? Really? i was gonna get the plump back adapter for it. =(

[ooNiCoo]

1. As above get a nistune installed, as good as aftermarket, looks stock (chip in your ecu), is cheap and everyone can tune them, find a good tuner, if in VIC I highly recommend STATUS, if in SA I recommend Boostworx

2. Sell the fuel reg as its completely unnecessary, makes tuning difficult and the stock one is ample for 300kw+

3. Sell the pod and get highflow panel filter as pods suck due to heat soak.

4. Get good tyres, I recommend federal 595evo/rpm for cheap performance

5. Get proper rated springs in your susp for aussie roads, no doubt HKS are 8kg or something stupid, aim for 4-5kg max for aussie roads, Tein super street are much better, or for the legal stock look go bilstein shocks and whiteline springs (will pass defect inspection if legal height)

This will be good for ~200kw ish with good streetable handling.

Future mods:

Get GTR injectors or equiv, Z32 AFM and a highflow turbo for the stock look that makes 250kw and will pass an EPA/defect inspection, if you don't care about getting defected and looking stock look towards a GT3076 turbo and make ~300kw

Really? Fuel regulator is useless? THe mechanic that did my car told me its better to get one, with a gauge. Hmmm will consider that again.

How much roughly is a Highflow panel filter?

[ooNiCoo]

And does anyone know where in WA that does nistune? cheers!

[Rolls]

Really? Fuel regulator is useless? THe mechanic that did my car told me its better to get one, with a gauge. Hmmm will consider that again.

How much roughly is a Highflow panel filter?

Ask yourself this why do you need an aftermarket fuel regulator? Can your current pump + reg + injectors supply enough fuel?

Yes? then why upgrade? (requires retune, shiny and will earn you a defect, harder to tune, often less reliable than stock)

No? then why not upgrade injectors? upping the rail reg will ruin your spray pattern making economy worse and you could have just put the money towards injectors

Highflow panel filter will be similar if not slightly cheaper than a pod, it is also completely street legal, avoids heat soak and will result in better performance and avoid defects. It will also sound similar (a bit quieter) and flow just as well, but whilst avoiding heat soak issues, win win.

[KiwiRS4T]

Have a read of the nistune website. It lists a number of WA installers:

http://www.nistune.com/ordering-distributors.php

Also read the nistune thread on here.

The panel filters are a common size - falcon, evo etc.

I m using a Pipercross Px-PP1128 for about $100 there are K&N many others.

Use the search button and use Google to ask questions (quite often you will be referred to this website!).

[Rolls]

Best option is to email nistune themselves, pete (one of the nistune manafactureres) whos email is: [email protected] will be able to recommend the best nistune tuner in your state, he is a very knowledgeable and helpful guy so I'd definitely swing him an email and see what he has to say.

[rondofj]

Agree - get a Nistune, I just did, and cant be happier - they cannot defect you for that as its hidden in the stock ecu box itself, dump that fuel regulator - theres no need for that, and yes the fuel pump IS important, just make sure to get it rewired, see threads in SAU for this - get the Walbro GSS342 pump.

Boost - I have mine at 12psi - dunno if I shud go 13psi?? - I know 14psi is the limit for stock turbo. I also just ordered a loboka (bokka) 4inch body 100 cell metal cat from ebay with 3" pipe entry / exit points.

And you're set. Turbo - I think I would go the Hypergear atr43 series turbos - maintains the stock look and no need for extras like oil/water lines, dump, custom intake, as is required with garret turbos - plus these also make similar power - I have yet to sit in a car with one before I decide to get it

[PM-R33]

I'm starting to loose count how many times i've posted this block of text lol.

The only reason to "upgrade" the factory FPR is really in three instances:

1. When your injectors are starting to max out, but you don't want to upgrade them, so you bump up the rail pressure with the aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure regulator to push them a little but furthur. Obviously this isn't ideal and most people don't recommend it. Just buy the correct injectors to start with.

2. When you are running huge amounts of boost and the factory fuel pressure regulator can not keep up the 1:1 fuel pressure ratio. Therefore you will need an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator that can handle this high amount of boost pressure and keep up the 1:1 ratio.

3. The factory fuel pressure regulator has failed so you may choose to buy an aftermarket one however still run it at factory fuel pressure.

So as you can see, not many people fall into the second category because a lot of people don't run 2+bar of boost through their car. A few do fall into the first category because they may be on a budget and don't want to upgrade the stock injectors so they choose to bump the rail pressure up instead and obviously a few will fall into the third category.

However there is a fourth category that you will find 90% of people with aftermarket fuel pressure regulators fall into:

4. They have no idea what an adjustable fuel pressure regulator does, but they got told to buy one by a mate or read about one somewhere.

[ooNiCoo]

I'm starting to loose count how many times i've posted this block of text lol.

Thanks for that info! I think i fell into the 4th category hahaha! But cheers for that, appreciate it! =)

[ooNiCoo]

would i be able to get some advise on what to do with my bov? i just got it installed and its pretty loud, am afraid that it will get the cops attention. i am getting a plumb-back adapter for it, any opinions on that?

thanks!

[rondofj]

go back to stock, aftermarket bovs are a waste of $$, in my opinion

[GTScotT]

Your mod list is good, all of the above sounds decent. Ditch the FPR as stated.

Nistune the ECU, ditch the BOV for the stock item (trust everone on this) and do something about your turbo.

Without changing your injectors and AFM you are limited to about 230rwkw, hypergear should be able to do a highflow for this kind of application for about a grand. If you want more than this you will need injectors and an AFM (add 1000 for used parts or 1500 for new parts). Then hypergear can also sort you out highflows up to 300 kw (but add lag for every interval of 40kw) that will bolt on. I recommend doing the AFM atleast and shoot for 240rwkw from a highflow using all stock housings.

GL

[ooNiCoo]

alright thanks for the advice. should have come here for advice before i bought the stuff hahaha. but thanks anyway. will try to sell it to someone else =)