Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if you're going to upgrade the Turbo (why not when you can get stock like response but a heap more power) go for the Hypergear SS highflow - around 250rwkw and very similar response to stock. You'll prob need a Z32 AFM, but you MIGHT be able to get away with it. I maxed the resolution at around 240'ish rwkw on my old GTT.

You'll need a GOOD intake pipe made up as well if you switch turbos. The old 'shove a metal pipe in' has it's limits, you'll need something custom made up - DON'T go the silicone options, waste of time. Metal, metal, metal.

Injectors are a much easier deal now-a-days, just grab some Injector Dynamics injectors. Start around the 725cc mark, but i'd prob just get 1000's to allow for E85 :D Or get the 'no-name' variety of Bosch EV12 (i think) style injector, that's what the ID's are based off.

I went nistune, hypergear highflow, stock airbox, stock BOv, highflow panel filter, return flow IC (plus other supporting mods) for bout 5+ years with GTT - never any cops drama's at all. Make sure the exhaust isn't too loud, and following all the great advice already in this thread you'll have a mean car that's still quite stealth. 250rwkw in a GTT is a lot of fun :)

But please please look into your tyres/suspension/brakes as well.

Swaybars, do eeet! Cheap and fantastic handling upgrade - Whiteline.

Tyres, my car liked the KU36's, but alternatively i'd prob splash a few hundred more on some AD08's from tirerack

Brake cylinder stopper, check ebay, very cheap.

Check brakes over, bleed, put some good fluid in etc (RBF600)

But yeah, would be a good idea to check the spring rates if you can. Get some swaybars for sure though! :D

have fun

Listen to this!! +1

yep.. stock parts work the best in some cases.. that goes for FPR, BOV's etc

what if i continued using the hks bov and add a plumb back adapter to it? would it be better than stock bov?

will the sound still be loud? and will it be defected?

thanks

It will be still quite loud, louder than stock, being as it is shiny you will probably get incorrectly defected for it (it is legal if plumbed back) no matter how much you show them it is in fact plumbed back.

It won't be any better than stock for your goals.

The standard bov is a recirculating bov which means it is allowing some air out even off boost. In that way it is different to all aftermarket bovs. This means that the tune will have to cover this up. My tuner recommended keeping the factory bov as he said its easier to tune and normally ends up with a much nicer result.

  • 2 months later...

The standard bov is a recirculating bov which means it is allowing some air out even off boost. In that way it is different to all aftermarket bovs. This means that the tune will have to cover this up. My tuner recommended keeping the factory bov as he said its easier to tune and normally ends up with a much nicer result.

can you elaborate on this please?

can you elaborate on this please?

The stock bov is recirculating, as in it recirculates the air back to the intake and doesn't release it to atmosphere, though some does leak back out the air filter. If you have it vent to atmosphere it means the air is metered by the AFM, but is then vented to atmosphere, this means the car injects fuel for air that isn't there and hence runs rich when throttling off causing backfires and stalling issues. Also the stock bov leaks on vac and idle, essentially bypassing the turbo intake which is a restriction on vac which is a nice feature.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...