Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anyone got a install guide for R32 GTR dump pipes? i took front pipes off and now trying to get dump pipes off is shitfight. looking at just getting ratchet spanner hoping that might make it easier. car is now in pieces so any quick help appricated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361613-r32-gtr-dump-pipe-install/
Share on other sites

depends...are you upgrading the turbos?

i started mid day saterday, had the turbos off by 7ish that night, then turbos on sunday morning and finished abit after lunch

but i had all the tools, all new gaskets etc etc so i didnt waste time to go source parts, plus i was lucky and my oil/oil lines didnt crack like alot do due to age

Put it this way, if you arent sure what changing the turbos would involve off the top of your head, you surely arent ready to handle such a task.

I have done many conversions and do not like the idea of doing GTR turbos with the motor in the bay.

i've done this without taking the turbos off, did it over 2 days and a few trips to the shop for a couple of tools I didn't have. You'll need a 13mm crescent wrench for some of the turbo to dump bolts. Getting the dump off the front turbo is possible without removing the rear turbo, but it may be made easier if you loosen the rear turbo to manifold bolts so you can move it a little. Here's some pics. It doesn't mean it's easier to do with turbos on though, just possble......post-48345-0-60735200-1303342764_thumb.jpgpost-48345-0-10348300-1303342732_thumb.jpgpost-48345-0-56935300-1303342695_thumb.jpgpost-48345-0-10152600-1303342657_thumb.jpgpost-48345-0-65060200-1303342605_thumb.jpg

I wrote this a while ago, might be relevant to your situation:

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_GTR-Revisited/A_111537/article.html

As said above, it's probably easier to remove the turbos. If for no other reason, than with the turbos out, you can be sure you get a nice even clamp with the bolts onto the turbo/dump gasket.

Removing turbos is not actually that hard if you carefully read the factory instruction manual and follow the sequence of removing stuff.

Also, remove the power steering pump - it seems like pointeless work but trust me it makes the job that much easier.

Also invest in a set of ratcheting spanners.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...