Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi.i have r33gts fitted with the rb20e.i would like to knw can i run the rb30e on the rb20e ecu with a piggyback to sort out the fuelling and ignition.just want abit of more power for now to move the heavy body.will the rb30 bolt straight in using the stock rb20 engine mounts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361822-rb20e-to-rb30e-in-a-r33gts/
Share on other sites

forgot to mention im from south africa.want to do a rb25/30 at a latre stage.whats the difference between a r33 rb25de and arb25de neo.from what i've read the neo got smaller combustion chambers then the r33 rb25de so the comp should be high enough if you use the rb25 neo pistons

was thinking of doing that.how hard is it to fit a vh45 in a r33.i've read john's thread bt it dnt say if he had to mod a few things to fit it n most info u get is how to fit it into 300 zx n s13/14s n not much into skylines

was thinking of doing that.how hard is it to fit a vh45 in a r33.i've read john's thread bt it dnt say if he had to mod a few things to fit it n most info u get is how to fit it into 300 zx n s13/14s n not much into skylines

It would be a pretty similar affair. Should be easier than a Silvia I would think as the bay would be bigger to start with.

should be an awesome car seeing what john done with his one but back to topic can my rb20e ecu run a rb30e.i'll be using everything on the rb20,inlet manifold,injectors,dissy and the exhaust manifold.i think it would run fine.im mostly after the extra touque of the rb30 till i upgrade later.

i think it should cz the rb30 in south african r31s ran with 21 deg timing.dnt knw if the injectors are the same size.it mite pick up a few extra kw cz the r33 rb20 inlet manifold seem to have bigger runners then the rb 30

Ive got an rb30e in my r33 and it smashes the pants off rb25de`s

the torque is good. Not so great on fuel tho

Engine mounts will be the same as the difference is in the block height

in terms of managment its best to use an rb30e loom and re wire it to suit the r33

Ebay has some cheap turbo kita for rb30e`s if u wanted more power later on

if u are serious pm me and ill send u some pics of my conversion and the wiring

Ive got an rb30e in my r33 and it smashes the pants off rb25de`s

the torque is good. Not so great on fuel tho

Engine mounts will be the same as the difference is in the block height

in terms of managment its best to use an rb30e loom and re wire it to suit the r33

Ebay has some cheap turbo kita for rb30e`s if u wanted more power later on

if u are serious pm me and ill send u some pics of my conversion and the wiring

contact nistune in australia who will be able to "chip" your rb20e ecu to run different fuel and timing maps to suit the rb30e.

my rb30 is n.a

basic mods: GTS style extractors 6-2-1, 2.5inch cat back zorst, pod filter, advanced ignition timing running premium fuel.

car has a 4.46:1 LSD, that helps ^.^ i dragged off a WRX to 100 km/h the other night

the car realistically has around 100 rwkw, with a cheap turbo kit it would have close to 170 rwkw

nice.im from south africa so my best bet will be to get a dastek piggyback ecu.currently got a pod n 57mm straight through exhaust with a rear can box.im making 85kw on da wheels.my best 1/4 mile is a 17.5 lol.with 100 on da wheels n more torque i mite get in the 16s

skit it will be hard for me to get the parts.i will be upgrading to a rb30det at a later stage just want sum extra power to move the heavy body.chris how high do u revyour rb30.seeing as the rb20e has a higher rev limiter i'll to let the piggyback ecu limit it to 6100rpm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...