Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently bought an r33 with these pre-installed and want to remove them...anyone got advice on how to do so and how easy it is? I have no removal instructions at all and haven't found any after searching. Looks like they're connected to the ECU, but never having touched electronics I don't want to fiddle too much without getting some advice first.

Cheers

wtf is a LEBC and a DFA ?

if its just crap thats tapped into the wiring then disconnect the battery and start chopping, tape up anything thats not insulated - dont want shit shorting out

as long as nothing is actually broken and run through these jaycar components you should be alright, if wiring has been broken and is running through these units then u gotta bridge it back together, if this is too complicated dont do it yourself lol, it'll just make the next guys job even harder

wtf is a LEBC and a DFA ?

if its just crap thats tapped into the wiring then disconnect the battery and start chopping, tape up anything thats not insulated - dont want shit shorting out

as long as nothing is actually broken and run through these jaycar components you should be alright, if wiring has been broken and is running through these units then u gotta bridge it back together, if this is too complicated dont do it yourself lol, it'll just make the next guys job even harder

IEBC = elec boost controller

DFA = Digital Fuel Adjuster

They come as electronic kits from Jaycar which you put together

Might be better selling the ECU with these installed and then put the $$$$ towards getting a nistune/pfc/vipec etc etc

Someone starting out will buy it as a first step performance upgrade???

Uncover the ecu. If you are lucky they will be connected with a loom extension so just unplug that and put the original plug back into the ecu.

If not: the wires are connected to the wires going into the plug and you can either unsolder them or just cut the wires off and tape up the exposed joins WITH TWO EXCEPTIONS

1. The IEBC interrupts the signal to the boost solenoid so you will have to remove the Jaycar wires from the wire going to the boost solennoid pin and join back together the cut ends of the boost solenoid wire. You will also have to replumb the vacuum/boost lines under the bonnet going to the solenoid and to the wastegate actuator.

2. The DFA interrupts the signal from the afm so again the wire going to that pin has been similarly cut and will need to be rejoined.

What car is it on and why are you taking it off?

If you are not sure about this don't start or you may end up with a dead engine.

Ask if you want more info.

Uncover the ecu. If you are lucky they will be connected with a loom extension so just unplug that and put the original plug back into the ecu.

If not: the wires are connected to the wires going into the plug and you can either unsolder them or just cut the wires off and tape up the exposed joins WITH TWO EXCEPTIONS

1. The IEBC interrupts the signal to the boost solenoid so you will have to remove the Jaycar wires from the wire going to the boost solennoid pin and join back together the cut ends of the boost solenoid wire. You will also have to replumb the vacuum/boost lines under the bonnet going to the solenoid and to the wastegate actuator.

2. The DFA interrupts the signal from the afm so again the wire going to that pin has been similarly cut and will need to be rejoined.

What car is it on and why are you taking it off?

If you are not sure about this don't start or you may end up with a dead engine.

Ask if you want more info.

Thanks for the reply. They're on a Series 2 R33.

Want to remove them and try the car stock, seems a little sluggish compared to my previous S1. Also have a turbotech manual boost controller which did a decent enough job, so would rather get the jaycar stuff out and hock it and put the manual BC in.

The iebc is a great unit, I would rate it over the manual one. The dfa is just jaycars equivalent of a safc. Have you shout about getting it tuned? With should eliminate the sluggishness. Food for thought

I had a Jaycar ebc. It was a great unit - took a little practice to find how it worked but could adjust speed of build boost finely. Also had a switch so you could have two complete maps. ( I only sold it because I got a Link which will do the boost control as well). Ran it with a SITC SLD and SAFC as I had an auto Stagea at the time - their unique ecus don't allow for nistune or other aftermarket ecu but now manual so all good.

If you dont have any idea on electronics, then playing around with AFM wires probably isnt advisable becuase you dont want to get that signal wrong.

I've accidentally wired a Z32 AFM backwards and it survived.

Uneek: See me on the w/e and I'll take a look.

I've accidentally wired a Z32 AFM backwards and it survived.

Uneek: See me on the w/e and I'll take a look.

you were damn lucky nothing else... electronics are a very touchie thing, the wrong voltage could kill something important in the afm or worse the ecu

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...