Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently bought an r33 with these pre-installed and want to remove them...anyone got advice on how to do so and how easy it is? I have no removal instructions at all and haven't found any after searching. Looks like they're connected to the ECU, but never having touched electronics I don't want to fiddle too much without getting some advice first.

Cheers

wtf is a LEBC and a DFA ?

if its just crap thats tapped into the wiring then disconnect the battery and start chopping, tape up anything thats not insulated - dont want shit shorting out

as long as nothing is actually broken and run through these jaycar components you should be alright, if wiring has been broken and is running through these units then u gotta bridge it back together, if this is too complicated dont do it yourself lol, it'll just make the next guys job even harder

wtf is a LEBC and a DFA ?

if its just crap thats tapped into the wiring then disconnect the battery and start chopping, tape up anything thats not insulated - dont want shit shorting out

as long as nothing is actually broken and run through these jaycar components you should be alright, if wiring has been broken and is running through these units then u gotta bridge it back together, if this is too complicated dont do it yourself lol, it'll just make the next guys job even harder

IEBC = elec boost controller

DFA = Digital Fuel Adjuster

They come as electronic kits from Jaycar which you put together

Might be better selling the ECU with these installed and then put the $$$$ towards getting a nistune/pfc/vipec etc etc

Someone starting out will buy it as a first step performance upgrade???

Uncover the ecu. If you are lucky they will be connected with a loom extension so just unplug that and put the original plug back into the ecu.

If not: the wires are connected to the wires going into the plug and you can either unsolder them or just cut the wires off and tape up the exposed joins WITH TWO EXCEPTIONS

1. The IEBC interrupts the signal to the boost solenoid so you will have to remove the Jaycar wires from the wire going to the boost solennoid pin and join back together the cut ends of the boost solenoid wire. You will also have to replumb the vacuum/boost lines under the bonnet going to the solenoid and to the wastegate actuator.

2. The DFA interrupts the signal from the afm so again the wire going to that pin has been similarly cut and will need to be rejoined.

What car is it on and why are you taking it off?

If you are not sure about this don't start or you may end up with a dead engine.

Ask if you want more info.

Uncover the ecu. If you are lucky they will be connected with a loom extension so just unplug that and put the original plug back into the ecu.

If not: the wires are connected to the wires going into the plug and you can either unsolder them or just cut the wires off and tape up the exposed joins WITH TWO EXCEPTIONS

1. The IEBC interrupts the signal to the boost solenoid so you will have to remove the Jaycar wires from the wire going to the boost solennoid pin and join back together the cut ends of the boost solenoid wire. You will also have to replumb the vacuum/boost lines under the bonnet going to the solenoid and to the wastegate actuator.

2. The DFA interrupts the signal from the afm so again the wire going to that pin has been similarly cut and will need to be rejoined.

What car is it on and why are you taking it off?

If you are not sure about this don't start or you may end up with a dead engine.

Ask if you want more info.

Thanks for the reply. They're on a Series 2 R33.

Want to remove them and try the car stock, seems a little sluggish compared to my previous S1. Also have a turbotech manual boost controller which did a decent enough job, so would rather get the jaycar stuff out and hock it and put the manual BC in.

The iebc is a great unit, I would rate it over the manual one. The dfa is just jaycars equivalent of a safc. Have you shout about getting it tuned? With should eliminate the sluggishness. Food for thought

I had a Jaycar ebc. It was a great unit - took a little practice to find how it worked but could adjust speed of build boost finely. Also had a switch so you could have two complete maps. ( I only sold it because I got a Link which will do the boost control as well). Ran it with a SITC SLD and SAFC as I had an auto Stagea at the time - their unique ecus don't allow for nistune or other aftermarket ecu but now manual so all good.

If you dont have any idea on electronics, then playing around with AFM wires probably isnt advisable becuase you dont want to get that signal wrong.

I've accidentally wired a Z32 AFM backwards and it survived.

Uneek: See me on the w/e and I'll take a look.

I've accidentally wired a Z32 AFM backwards and it survived.

Uneek: See me on the w/e and I'll take a look.

you were damn lucky nothing else... electronics are a very touchie thing, the wrong voltage could kill something important in the afm or worse the ecu

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for all the replies fellas. Gonna finish putting it back together and see how it handles the set up. If it starts pinging it’ll be parked.
    • Well, I can recommend the partial AV system translation CD I ordered from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. Whilst it didn't address the date issue, it has conveniently translated on-screen menu items into English, and now allows the GPS-received time to be offset in hours rather than minutes, so I can display Eastern Australian time accurately ( and bump it by another hour when daylight savings starts ).
    • Yuh, if it's 45°C outside, my car is driving in it.
    • I'd be curious to hear more. Otherwise, have you driven a modern x-trail? I wonder how it compares. Here in Australia they are/were popular for rentals and fleet vehicles. I have been in some and my impression was they are bad. But, this may have been very different in the 2000s at a good trim level. Twenty years is plenty of time to make the model worse. I do very much agree with the 2 silver cars in the garage approach. But, not driving because it's too hot would not leave a lot of time in the year for many Australians. I don't think you need to worry too much unless the car has actual issues with overheating. 
    • Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four-speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to its full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so stupid hot in there, that made it all the more easy -after I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'- to finally remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
×
×
  • Create New...