Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

for the past few months now, my car is realy hard to start when its hot. cold start is perfect and fires up straight away and idles perfect, but when the car is hot and i turn it off for about 15mins or more it takes along time to get it started, it just keeps cranking, then it goes to start but the revs are very very low and you need to continue cranking until finaly it starts, sometimes have to pump the accelerator to help it fire up !

ive also noticed if you turn it off, then back on after only afew minutes it will start first go, no probs :S so only happens when its sitting for about 15mins or more...

things ive tried/replaced but still no luck:

turn on the ignition and let fuel pump finish priming then start. still no different

new coilpacks/coil pack loom/spark plugs

Sard 280lp/h fuel pump with direct battery power feed

timing belt quadtriple checked and timing is spot on

compression test @ 160-162psi accross each cylinder

r33 gtr air flow meters, cleaned and tested

its realy annoying any help would be great !

tonight i went for coffee with the misses, got back to the car and it wouldnt start for ages, just kept crankiiiiiing seems like it could be getting worse

thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362999-r32-gtr-hard-to-start-when-hot/
Share on other sites

tonight after coffee, the car was sitting for 1 hour, it just wouldnt start, the worse its ever been ! kept cranking and cranking then went to fire but the revs were so low it died and continued cranking. :S

ok il give the temp of the car when i go to restart it and it does this

also it was doing this few weeks before i got the nistune, so got nothing to do with ecu

mine did this with a vq motor.. turned out to be plugs where in the wrong temp range so when the engine was hot. they just wouldnt start n felt sluggish for a second or two if it did..

also if o2 sensor is screwed it can screw up fuel mapping on start up.. hope you find the problem mate

Mine also does this but no where near as bad. Starts almost instantly when I turn the key on cold start, but when warm it cranks a little bit then fires and I usually blip the throttle a little to bring the revs up. Has been like that ever since I had my injectors installed, so I believe they are the culprit. Doesn't bug me TOO much so I haven't done anything about it.

yeh forgot to mention, changed from my heat range 6 iridiums (were on the car when i got it) to bcpr7es 0.8mm copper plugs, but these made the car hesitate and jerk when driven while cold until the car warmed up. so i ended up putting fresh iridiums in, heat range 6 @ 1.1mm gap with new coilpacks

car still had the iridiums in that were on the car when i bought it and then out of no where started doing this, the problem didnt start after i changed plugs, which i then changed back to the ones originaly on the car as it was running perfect for 1 year with them

thanks for the input guys !

Edited by SiR_RB

dunno but the car basicaly needs to be bone cold ie. be off for 5hours or more so it can start normal, anything less then that and it has the shits starting lol weird :S

Edited by SiR_RB
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

update:

replaced with genuine nissan coolant temp sensor...still does it !

tomorow i will be changing my fuel reg so fingers crossed this solves my problem

according to consult only one of my o2 sensors is working but i didnt think they have anything to do with starts/idling ? plus we tuned around them and i get excellent fuel economy (easy 430kms per tank, and thats not driving like a nana :)

car idles 100% perfect, no hiccups or anything :)

can you check the load on the starter while cranking? both cold and hot

if there is a huge jump in amperage draw from cold to hot then it "may" be an issue in both injectors and spark while cranking.

anyone with a claw type current multimeter could help you out there

  • 1 month later...

my car got stolen. lol.

but i was told it was leaky injectors. go do a search on the symptoms of leaking injectors and you'll see its pretty similar. fires up nicely in the morning. but after going to the shops, coming back 10-20mins later. car needs to crank a bit to get started.

  • 7 years later...
On 3/25/2019 at 5:50 AM, SeanR32GtSt said:

Did this ever get sorted? I’m having similar issues with my r32 gtst

Cranking compensation table wasn't dialed in properly. Was too lean to start.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...