Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Have recently bought a rebuilt HKS GT2530 for my R32 but im not happy with the lag its got, as im after really good response and im leaning more towards a GT3076R with a .63 rear housing so if anyone has one they would swap with cash adjustment if necessary or sell me i am very keen.

Also if someone can come up with $1200 i will sell the 2530, it comes with the standard .63 internally gated rear housing and also the V Band externally gated housing on it (unsure of size, probably A/R 1.xx something), it has a 2.5" inlet and uses the standard 3 bolt rb20 hotside pipe,

Also have a 3" stainless dump to use with the internally gated rear housing or a mild steel 3" dump for the V Band housing both on the standard manifold so it is a direct drop in for an rb20 or rb25.

The turbo is currently on the car and can be inspected and/or taken for a drive in the car.

Can get pictures on request also,

Contact me on here or SMS on 0408 117 171 for a quicker response.

Cheers,

Daniel.

Yea it will bud cause ill be running a .63 rear housing on the GT30, and i know for a fact that setup will build decent boost sooner than 4500 lol, i could buy a smaller housing for the 2530 but im looking to up the boost a fair bit more than 16psi later on so with the 3076 i will be able to do that .

nah a 3076 won't spool quicker than a 2530 on a lil rb20 , if your getting full boost at 4500rpm then there's a problem , mine was getting full boost by 4000rpm (20psi) . my kkr 430 spooled faster than the 2530 though but reached full boost at similar rpm , have you tried the 2530 with the iw housing?

na i havent tried the IW housing as i would have to cut up another dump pipe just to try it, what size rear housing did you have ? the one on mine is about as fat as the rear housing on my GT35R lol..

I know of a fella running the GT3076 and he had a housing that was A/R 1.06 or there abouts and he then changed to a .63 and said it started spooling by 2200..

And have seen others with slightly laggier results..

If i could get 20psi by 4-5 with the 3076 i would be happy.

Edit: For anyone interested, this is the turbo's resale value:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HKS-Turbo-GT2530-RECONDITIONED-S13-S14-S15-Siliva-200sx-/230616218702?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b1cc3c4e

Edited by DanielH

ah geez mines alot snappier than that, wheelspin is a major issue in 2nd let alone 1st on street tires, i have uploaded a video to show just how the turbo performs on a std RB20, after the wheelspin in 1st gear its wide open from 4k and then wide open from 4k in 2nd before more wheelspin.

http://s162.photobuc...05052011019.mp4

If someone has a GT30 they want to sell let me know, ill pay cash, i also have a complete 1JZ setup i would swap..

Edited by DanielH

Yeah i have a nistune on order, i have many reasons to upgrade to a GT3076 lol, the std ecu idles and cruises at 14.7:1 AFRs +/- .2 and holds a consistant 12:1 under boost so im not worried about my engine, lol.

The biggest reason i have for upgrading from the 2530 is that im already at the limit of the smaller turbo, i can feel it drop off at around 7200rpm at 16psi, which i never had with the turbo i had before that (eBay spec T3/T04E), which i would expect given the small front wheel and housing these turbos have.

So naturally when i get the nistune and get it tuned for over 20PSI im going to have all sorts of issues high in the revs with this turbo.

fairo , will be interesting to see the end result , i can remember going for a run in a 3076 equipped r33 , seemed pretty mental .

Yeah a mate of mine has one on his 1JZ, hits 16psi before 3k and pulls like a mule till 8, and they sound awesome on spoolup :whistling:

I can vouch for the mentality of mine, it's awesome :D esp with a 2" screamer :D

Love it :D

I would actually marry it if I could. I might just get a big gold ring to put around it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...