Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

oh wait its an EF.. Yeah probably past its useby date :laugh:

just about any car is reliable if its serviced properly so your question is pretyy silly.. What sort of car do you want. Id be getting an SP20 mazda or SR2 ford for about 10k personally if you still want a hatch that is

actually just saw a sss pulsar hatch for 6500 looked nice, post some pics later

well I always serviced the civic every 5,000kms due to it being old it had nothing but problems....sss pulsar go hard from what I read might have to look into it

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

what sort of "in town" driving is it? if it is on motorways,, expressways, etc then you will get dramatically better economy than someone in stop/start traffic.

Tulla to Brighton daily

Driving to SYDNEY get 700km to tank. Best mate didn't believe me till he used it.

get a magna

...with a cat back :whistling:

You should be looking for a big aussie 6, since you are doing highway ks.

A smaller car eg. civic/corolla/pulsar will not really save you much fuel for highway use. But for urban use, definately.

You also need to factor in servicing and parts - Commodore and Falcon will always be the cheapest to service, negating the service costs for a smaller car.

I'm looking at buying a daily in a few months too, don't really need one atm coz I walk to work. I've heard N15's were pretty decent and the GA16 is pretty reliable too - anyone think any different?

I can say these cars are bullet proof, never any problems.

Workmate has one (5 speed manual), clocked up 280,000km, original owner.

One of my friends has one (4 speed auto), clocked up 310,000km, second owner.

They just get the cars regularly serviced.

is that freeway, noosa and back yeah. Our honda gets about that around town and as much as 800 per 55lt on the highway. My bt50 does 650 to 700 per 55lt.

mostly highway, but it's far from being a flat trip. about 2.5kms from work heading home there is a 1.2km long hill that is just under 10%, and since the car has to be in 3rd it does increase the fuel usage, espeically since the car is still coming up to temp and on cold start enrichment. best i've gotten out of the commodore so far was 8.76L/100kms. the best out of the pulsar was 6.5L/100kms on a trip, but generally it is in the mid 7's to low 8's, but that's driving normally and not being a granny.

...with a cat back :whistling:

You should be looking for a big aussie 6, since you are doing highway ks.

A smaller car eg. civic/corolla/pulsar will not really save you much fuel for highway use. But for urban use, definately.

You also need to factor in servicing and parts - Commodore and Falcon will always be the cheapest to service, negating the service costs for a smaller car.

LOL.

as for not getting much better economy, yeah on a highway trip you will save anywhere from 1 to 2L/100kms, which is bugger all, but round town the economy difference will be double that.

N15 is an excellent choice.

+1. the missus car (my old car) is a n15 SSS. very nice car to drive, decent on fuel. goes pretty good, and hasn't missed a beat in the 8 years we've had it. i got the commodore because we needed a second car and i wanted something cheap and comfy (can't beat aussie cars for seat comfort) to rack up the kms on (125km round trip to work everyday).

get a magna

I've got a Magna all wheel drive, amazing handling, very low running and insurance costs, a keeper and I mean it. Mentioned to me by a colleague who worked with police when they ran them and liked them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Possibly avoid using a Cometic one unless the deck/head surface are perfectly flat. I did have a look just then and forgiving gaskets such as Tomei or Nitto don't exist for the FJ20, however the Bar-Tek or Kameari ones look good and might do the trick.
    • Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.
    • Just throwing around ideas, does it need to be in the compressor cover? Why not the hot side piping?
    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
×
×
  • Create New...