Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Small bumps in the road on corners send my car skitting across the road with a huge shudder through the ass of the car. Possible causes?.... New 18" wheels fitted recently, rear shocks leaking something (not sure what) therefore maybe they are in need of replacement? Am I on the right track with any of this. Its a little disconcerting. I have king springs all round and have had no problems with them since I put them in six months ago. Any suggestions appreciated.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36537-why-is-my-rear-skipping/
Share on other sites

Dude, i had this exact same problem with my car awhile back.. turns out the rear shock absorbers were stuffed.. it stopped working completely. i say more that likele your rear suspension.. go to pedders and get them to do test your shocks.. it only cost $14 or something so worht it i reckon.

go to a decent suspension place(not sure about pedders) and ask them to check it out. most times I have done it at the one near me. they don't charge me to tell me what it is. then if the price is right I get it fixed there.

but yeah it sounds like the shocks are gone, oh well. guess its time for coilovers! :(

Small bumps in the road on corners send my car skitting across the road with a huge shudder through the ass of the car. Possible causes?.... New 18" wheels fitted recently, rear shocks leaking something (not sure what) therefore maybe they are in need of replacement? Am I on the right track with any of this. Its a little disconcerting. I have king springs all round and have had no problems with them since I put them in six months ago. Any suggestions appreciated.  

cheers

My car is doing the exact same thing. Will get my suspension looked at.

Thanks for this thread to all involved.

Yes that's what happened to me, the back would get all jittery around corners and over small bumps. I took out the back suspension and after I undid the pillow mount bolt on one of the shocks to get the spring off the shocky collapsed, I could push it all the way down and it would just stay there and when you lifted it all the way up and jiggled it it would fall down all by it's self.

I had previously taken the car to Pedders and they said that they where soft but other then that they where fine.

I have the same problem when going over small bumps (a good example is going "across" a main intersection where trucks have left big dips in the road). The rear end just sorta skips and I get a light squeel of the rear tyres (only under accelleration).

My rear shocks are only 10mths old, rear tyres are 9mths old and I've got Pineapples fitted.

Do any of you guys get axle tramp under accelleration ?

Yeah I think its the back right shock. Cause when I get under the car and shake the car there is a hell of alot of bumping/knocking going on coming from the shock. Oh well, hope this doesn't phcuk up my skidpan day on sat :devfu:

Anybody wanna sell me a set of rear coilovers?

I have the exact problem you describe, it appeared after a skidpan day. Wheel alignment and wheel balancing cured most of the problem but I still occasionaly get the shuddering.

I got my shocks tested at ABS and they said they are borderline acceptable, I say they are f*cked - every little bump gets picked up and the rear feels floaty. So time for bilsteins I think, or i'm considering getting standard shocks again ($170 each)

Greg just chuck in the bit extra and get Bilseins they are $245 each.

I have the exact problem you describe, it appeared after a skidpan day. Wheel alignment and wheel balancing cured most of the problem but I still occasionaly get the shuddering.

I got my shocks tested at ABS and they said they are borderline acceptable, I say they are f*cked - every little bump gets picked up and the rear feels floaty. So time for bilsteins I think, or i'm considering getting standard shocks again ($170 each)

True, but its not the money thats deterring me from the Bilsteins, its bumpy roads! I think the Bilsteins will be a bit too stiff. But I guess there's only one way to find out. Hmm and then there's the decision of Whiteline vs Bilstein, although apparently they are similar :

craz0 thanks heaps for your help! :D i posted a thread on this topic but no one replied! I'll go ahead with the bilsteins, keeping the standard springs because I need the ride height to clear driveways and bumps etc. thanks again

edit: just looked at your photos and was amazed to see your car is the same colour as mine (paint code KN6, yeah?). yours is the only other skyline i have seen in our purplish/dark grey/charcoal colour! I was beginning to think my colour was a custom order or something :) anyway laters,

sorry for the hijack of thread i recommend you get a wheel alignment and wheel balance for starters, could save you a lot of money.

Slamm, definately sounds like your shocks are rooted. Also coil overs are completely overrated when it comes to road grip, that is unless they are setup correctly and used with the ideal ride height. Sounds like you have good springs already so some good shock inserts for your standard struts would be a cheaper and more suited to your criteria, that is if you want to grip not slip!

Greg, for the roads you travel on, I would recommend a firm spring with a medium gas insert. From experience too firm on the shockers results in too much steering effort.

I am glad that my nismo shocks and springs are still good at 100,000k and when they do give up I hope to get them kitted and reuse them.

Thanks to Prank for fixing the new posts tab, that is probably why Greg's thread went unanswered. :)

thanks for all the input ppl. My shocks are screwed. at least one is. Oil (or fluid whatever) is leaking everywhere. They are standard 33 struts replaced when I got my springs done. I lowered the car a month after buying it and when we pulled the old struts out they were both bent. possibly caused by the car being strapped down tight on the boat over?!! the dealer i bought the car from replaced the old struts with, well, another pair of old struts and six months down the track this is where I am. the handling is shocking atm. just like a boat. will tell you how I fare tomorrow at skidpan day. I know I probably should be wary of going tomorrow but I will make a decision there as to how it feels.

still nobody got some old dusty coilovers or adjustables they want to get rid of? or maybe I should learn a lesson on 2nd hand stuff. you just never know.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...