Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Can anyone tell me where to find on the world wide web the ride heights for r34 that regency allow? Wana keep the boys In blue happy with the height Thanks

It's been covered in the defect thread before .. I have an old copy of the stats here - pretty sure it's still accurate for R34:

9yWXX.jpg

any idea how i can get a engine block from the US to Aus?

which part of USA luke? there is a place on sir bradman drive that runs freight logistics from the west coast of USA . its not cheap or fast . you must palletize the engine on metric pallet then weigh it, a plastic pallet saves you the trouble of spraying it for bugs on arrival in customs.

I have a few connections but most dont come to adelaide only east coast then you have to ship from brissy to adelaide, the one above goes the whole way from west coast of USA to Adelaide

Quick question ... need to replace my dump pipe off the turbo on my Neo RB25. Would a 2.5" split dump pipe strangle any power, or should I go 3" split dump pipe?

I currently run a 3" bellmouth, but looking for a change.

:thumbsup:

Quick question ... need to replace my dump pipe off the turbo on my Neo RB25. Would a 2.5" split dump pipe strangle any power, or should I go 3" split dump pipe?

I currently run a 3" bellmouth, but looking for a change.

:thumbsup:

Split dump, go see Andrew, he will sort you out!

Also still have the Senna DVD here for you

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...