Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

krishy: after doing some searching around it does seem that the active LSD halfshafts are fractionally shorter then a normal set.. meaning they would have been pulling on the half shafts :( what a PITA.

sounds like it would be easier if Krishy just sold it to me :whistling:

  • Replies 3.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

good work Brendan keep your eyes fixed on your goal and thats a degree in 4 years time

thanks mate - and a rewarding career working with highend technology to help the everyday person who is sick/unwell or injured/in-pain

I know how debilitating chronic pain is & how much it effects you and your surroundings, so if I can forge a career out of helping others Id be over the moon.

"The path to greatness is neither easy nor predictable".

My goals are: preparing for Uni by covering the 3-main text books used for the first two years, get thru 1st semester, 1st year then 2nd year & start the clinical placement, get the degree & accreditation in radiation science, get work in the diagnostic imaging field, finally get some income & buy a house again, and reward myself with a Blue R35 by around 2018. Step by step, little by little, I really want to work towards my goals. If I find its beyond me then so be it, but its nice to dream (again)

SR20DET heavy duty carbotic button clutch kit $440 inc gst

if you would like to order PM me as this is my price not a random ring up price

We rate this clutch to 330 rwkw. It has 5 puks with a sprung center.

Mobil 1 gold 0w40 any good for RB26? or should I just go with the ever popular Motul 300v 10w40 or 15w50?

Your opinion?

Don't ever run a 0W** oil in Aust Andz......the 10W40 is what you need bud.......15W50 if you track it.

Nulon has received some negative feedback in the past from mainly those that have no idea, but they actually do a good product and have a 6L bottle of 10W40 full synthetic that's every bit as good as the Motul product

SR20DET heavy duty carbotic button clutch kit $440 inc gst

if you would like to order PM me as this is my price not a random ring up price

We rate this clutch to 330 rwkw. It has 5 puks with a sprung center.

having a chat with the minister for war and finance in the morning, we'll see how that goesthumbsup.gif

Don't ever run a 0W** oil in Aust Andz......the 10W40 is what you need bud.......15W50 if you track it.

Nulon has received some negative feedback in the past from mainly those that have no idea, but they actually do a good product and have a 6L bottle of 10W40 full synthetic that's every bit as good as the Motul product

just a note.

neither the 300V OR the nulon oil is compatiable with E85. both will go milky after a very short period of time.

Roadmaster RM500 from Anglomoil is aussie made, full syn, suits e85 and is a really good oil. been using it a lot lately. Garage 7 stock it.

heres a video

Mobil 1 gold 0w40 any good for RB26? or should I just go with the ever popular Motul 300v 10w40 or 15w50?

Your opinion?

Mobil 1 is good stuff, I use Redline in everything. that 0 weight is a bit too light for the hot weather coming up IMO, thats what the lower number means, the flow rate during cold weather.

I used Mobil 1 in my RX7 and the car made it nearly 400,000 MILES , of hardcore racing road racing and daily driving on a bridgeport 12A before it broke a rotor gear siezed , it still ran on one rotor for months as a daily..haha 1 rotor on a alloy flywheel is shocking amount of torque to move a car by the way. ..lol

and used it on my old R31 thats still ticking over 500,000km on it never had more then a valve cover off , purrrrs still

Had to laugh like a 12yr old little boy when I saw this:

post-78650-0-71771000-1317816154_thumb.jpg

Soft fish taco anyone?

Not sure about the crispy bit though.....

Edited by SatchiThaStagea

Had to laugh like a 12yr old little boy when I saw this:

post-78650-0-71771000-1317816154_thumb.jpg

Soft fish taco anyone?

Not sure about the crispy bit though.....

thats a american thing, Wahoos fish tacos shack rocks, it sounds fowl but its nice if you like fish and mexican food. , soggy would be horrible

http://www.wahoos.com/

lloks like they have a franchise in australia now too ?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...