Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does $110 seem abit much to get just the 2 front windows tinted?

sounds pretty cheap to me. At my work it's $375 for a full car, or the same guy does it at hone under his own business and it's $250 for a full carthumbsup.gif

  • Replies 3.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

the place i had mine done bent the rail inside the drivers door so my window ended up falling down inside the door about a week after the tint was done. the tint was ruined too.

Here's something that should interest all "L" & "P" platers.

Just saw a show on Chanel 9 where a kid blew .015 and insisted he had nothing to drink (zero tolerance obviously in his case).

Proved later that he was affected by his drunk mate passenger....just by inhaling the air that his mate was exhaling in the same car.

So the moral of the story is, if you're an "L" or "P" plater, don't kiss drunk chicks (or blokes) and stay away from "close talkers" :cheers:

asif u would kiss ur mate if u wernt drunk tho :nyaanyaa:

sounds pretty cheap to me. At my work it's $375 for a full car, or the same guy does it at hone under his own business and it's $250 for a full carthumbsup.gif

I only ask because I'm used to paying less then $200 for an entire car where as I'm only asking to just get 2 windows done now.

Booked in tomorrow I didn't care about the price just asking to see if this was about normal.

^^ not sure but if you can find what your looking for at super cheap auto I have a gift voucher I would like to sell someone could buy and use on such a purchase

I guess it would depend if you're spray painting or just using some air tools and look for one with a 2yr warranty

edit Supercheap's website has some on the front page

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/#HomeProductRotator

Federal 595-SS 255/40/17 $147.00 i have heard these are a very good street tyre

Krishy's mate priced me up a good price on these Bob Jane prospect

npz his name escapes me just atm im sure Krishy will be in later and tell us his name

lol

Good to hear that you were able to get a good deal with them mate. His name is Clint.

Just let him know that you know me and he will try and get you the best deal. No harm in asking for a quote :D

Anyone know where to get a good but cheap compressor? And what to look for?

Yeah as Steve-o said, depends what you are doing. If you do a bit of spraying and want a good spray gun, youll need a fairly decent compressor. put it this way, to get one of our good gravity guns, youll need at least 300 litres per minute free air delivery. Or a bit lesser quality, around 210-220 lpm

Yeah I wouldn't mind getting something with the ability to do spraying aswel as air tools. From what I can see Super cheap auto compressors only do around 180 lpm, I have kiij around the net though and people are talking about connecting two together if needed, which I suppose I could do but it would take up alot of space.

finally took the track pads out of the GTR last night.

the rotors have seen better days, the backing plate on the pads has all the paint flaked or broken off.

the tyres are shocking! 2 huge flat spots!

the front under guard is just zip tied on.

it at least starts easy, and runs fine. its sad looking at the wheels and seeing cobwebs connecting the brakes and wheels!

GTR definitely is in need of some TLC

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...