Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ben, who is feeding you this rubbish............try running -5's (with or without stock boost) and see how they run without a tune....they def have different trim and comp size hence your AFR's will be all over the shop

You're requirement for a tune is based on AFR"S (in this case) not just boost.........I'm not even referring to boost

Cam gear adjusting will affect your valve timing.............a good tune will give you a nice balance between correct AFR's and ignition timing

well this is what ive gathered from the nistune forums and a few other sources

I'd be the first to admit I dont know what Im talking about, which is why imma spend the next 18 months figuring out what I want to do when the time comes - I want to do the brakes/rims/rubbers/suspension and interior over the next year and a bit - performance is not a concern atm

that said, when it does become a priority, it would be good to know wtf is and wtf isnt.

simply telling me that ive been fed rubbish isnt helpful tho.

-D

  • Replies 3.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

That's fine, and that's why I said, based on your sentiments towards your current setup, you'd be happier IMO with a -5 setup which is pretty much the next step up from where you are now.

Spending $$ on -7's will not see much (maybe a smidge) difference to your current setup.................R34 N1's are a different story again though (they sit somewhere in between your current setup and the -5's if my memory serves me correctly)

Hope that helps a little............good night all :D

That's fine, and that's why I said, based on your sentiments towards your current setup, you'd be happier IMO with a -5 setup which is pretty much the next step up from where you are now.

Spending $$ on -7's will not see much (maybe a smidge) difference to your current setup.................R34 N1's are a different story again though (they sit somewhere in between your current setup and the -5's if my memory serves me correctly)

Hope that helps a little............good night all :D

further truth would be even to say that perhaps the next upgrade just would not be worth it for its purpose.

how often does a daily need 300kw in any case?

-D

-7s are the same as 34 n1s

33 n1s are laggy pos

If you're happy with 300kw then you want -9s as they are basically an updated -7, they make more power but have extremely similar spool times. They are however slightly more expensive. -5s need something to help wake them up. Lots of boost is ideal but obviously not for a standard motor. I use poncams. E85 would help massively too. -5s+E85 would be the perfect street setup on a gtr IMO.

-7s or -9s are the turbos you want.

Just go dash 5s... In my opinion they are the perfect compromise between power and response. My 26 with poncams and 18psi makes a nice 320awkw with nice response and fantastic power delivery. Sure the turbos have a lot more left in them but when i build my motor then ill push for more. Until then Im more than happy with my setup

Congratulations to the f**king retard silver skyline owner who was involved in the hit and run death of a motorcyclist this morning. You have held up 100% of the traffic from anywhere in Adelaide to Wingfield.

yeah its pretty bad, i dont understand how its possible to not even realise you hit someone. the news was quick to mention that police are searching for a silver nissan skyline

http://www.adelaidenow.com.au/news/south-australia/serious-crash-halts-salisbury-hwy/story-e6frea83-1226063866676

"silver or maroon nissan skyline" what? they arent similar colours haha

-7s are the same as 34 n1s

33 n1s are laggy pos

If you're happy with 300kw then you want -9s as they are basically an updated -7, they make more power but have extremely similar spool times. They are however slightly more expensive. -5s need something to help wake them up. Lots of boost is ideal but obviously not for a standard motor. I use poncams. E85 would help massively too. -5s+E85 would be the perfect street setup on a gtr IMO.

-7s or -9s are the turbos you want.

Just go dash 5s... In my opinion they are the perfect compromise between power and response. My 26 with poncams and 18psi makes a nice 320awkw with nice response and fantastic power delivery. Sure the turbos have a lot more left in them but when i build my motor then ill push for more. Until then Im more than happy with my setup

Dohmar, if you're wondering what turbo's to get then you should listen to people with them and they probably would all tell you that any boost level under 18psi is probably not worth your while. its a too laggy setup for between 250-280rwkw. they start coming alive with 18psi. because then when they spool up they go hard!!

i had my 2860's for ages, started on a stock motor and they were crap, laggy as full boost by 5000rpm and only made 210rwkw on 14psi. this was with all stock ecu fuel pump and injectors.

with a rebuild motor the comp was much better cos it wasnt so tired. it managed 250rwkw with still std ecu and 14psi

it wasnt until i got my nistune and injectors and fuel pump that i could push 18psi into it and thats when they came alive. i ran 320rwkw on boostworx dyno.

IMO they're a good turbo for the compromise between a mid 300kw car that you still want to use on the street.

so if you want response and are not looking to be in the 300 club then don't buy them, stick with your N1's or go for -7's or -9's

Okay the ARC intercooler didnt make any difference!

Damn!!

it probably cools better but obviously wasnt the thing causing the flow restriction.

the only things left could be the STD cams or the 3in exhaust.

i'd love the car to have a lumpier idle, but i think with possibly being a home owner in 4 weeks time is going to put a serious halt on getting cams.

looks like i'll have to be satisfied with 365rwkw for a while.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 🙂 
    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
×
×
  • Create New...