Jump to content
SAU Community

Porsche Gt3 Calipers

HIZOKU
 Share

Recommended Posts

HIZOKU Proficient

HIZOKU

Posted
Posted

Alright i have searched but im a bit confused about how the Porsche GT3 calipers are backwards as such? can anyone clear this up and what is needed to make this work?

i'm looking for a brake upgrade for my car JZX81 normal upgrade is going to r33 gtst calipers and disc to suit, i have done this so it is time for the next step up.

choices are just upgrade to R33 GTR calipers and 330mm rotors but i thought i would rather spend the extra and get something a bit bigger do it once and do it right the 1st time so looking at the 350mm mark with big 4 pot or 6 pot calipers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365520-porsche-gt3-calipers/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

I have the porsche calipers on mine, but the pistons are equal sized (ie no leading and trailing). In my case I unscrewed and swapped the bleeder nipples with the bridge so that it was right way up. All good including plenty of race use.

I have also seen people with porsche calipers with unequal sized pistons. That is a bit dodgy because the small piston comes first not the large one, nothing you can do about it. I would steer clear of that setup

HIZOKU Proficient

HIZOKU

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok that is what i wanted to know

Do you have a part number at all or what model GT3 they came off for the equal sized pistons?

and since i have to make a bracket is it possible to swap like LH to RH and RH to LH to put the pistons the right way or something?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Just call up Porsche Melb, you can buy the monoblock over the counter for like $700ea or something.

Issue is getting pads and the rotor to suit, you'll be paying out your arse.

Have a look and see if there is a KSport or D2 kit in the size you are after. It'll be a darn sight cheaper and easier in that form.

HIZOKU Proficient

HIZOKU

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Just call up Porsche Melb, you can buy the monoblock over the counter for like $700ea or something.

Issue is getting pads and the rotor to suit, you'll be paying out your arse.

Have a look and see if there is a KSport or D2 kit in the size you are after. It'll be a darn sight cheaper and easier in that form.

Sorry to sound mean but where does it say where do i buy these from?

i can use rotors from a ford BA there 350mm i was even of thinking of using there callipers but the reason i asked about the GT3 was i know of a set (front and rear )for sale for 1200 and was reading up on here on how they are backwards and wanted to know how they are backwards

BRR-GT3-Stop-frt-caliper-only-sm.jpg

Like looking at this pick Big one 1st small ones 2nd flip it right way around is that not the correct way?

Edited by HIZOKU
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

hang on....that pic you posted has different sized pistons. If you run it upside down you will have *more* tapered pad wear because the large piston is at the wrong end.

my caliper has evenly sized pistons so it is fine to run upsidedown

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Dunc...forget which way the bleed nipples point. Grab the caliper, orientate the caliper to the side of the car that means when you bolt it to the car the small piston points up and large piston closest to the ground and go from there. If orientating the caliper this way means your bleed nipples are facing down (as will be the case if you use Porsche calipers, Totoyota Supra, RX7 calipers etc etc) then swap over the bleed nipples/interest. If you use calipers off an EVO etc then the pistons will be orientated correctly

If the pistons of your Porsche calipers were equal, then can i ask the reason why you had to swap over the bleed nipples. Are the calipers not symmetrical? Or do they offset the equal sized pistons to one side of the pad???? Seems strange

PS, I would buy those calipers for $1200 for front and rear if you dont want them :) (Provided they are the pics posted, as they are not GT3 calipers!!!! :) )

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTR running rich and noisy turbo coincidence

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R34 GTR running rich and noisy turbo coincidence

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      CAS maybe?
    • silviaz
      Recomended Coolant For Gt T R34

      By silviaz · Posted

      What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • donut_kng
      R34 GTR running rich and noisy turbo coincidence

      By donut_kng · Posted

      Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • Rezz
      R34 4 door side skirt identification

      By Rezz · Posted

      No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...