Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Engine Removal

r14

By r14,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

r14 Collaborator

r14

Posted
Posted

hi iam just about to pull the donk out of the 32 i know it can be dropped out the bottom as a whole 'and pulled out through the engine bay . from peoples expeirence witch way would be the easyer of the two i only have a trolly jack and an engine crane and the gear box has to come out aswel :cheers: cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365631-r32-gtr-engine-removal/
Share on other sites
r14 Collaborator

r14

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Unless you have a hoist, take it out the top after you remove the gearbox. With one jack and a couple of stands, you would never get the car body high enough to get the engine out from under it

when taking the engine out the top can i take it out with the box attatched ? what would the problem be doing it with the box on ?

J'z-R33 Grand Master

J'z-R33

Posted
Posted

Can be done with the box attached, just have to stuff around a bit to get the angles right to clear the tunnel and radiator support.

I'd highly recommend doing a google search to find the R32 service repair manual. It shows you step by step how to remove and re-install the motor aswell as other general service procedures.

Cheers,

Johno

Deano 1 Mentor

Deano 1

Posted
Posted

i have a hoist in my garage... would it be best for me to drop it all out the bottom when the time comes for me to pull my motor? i was planing on taking it out the top, but if its easyer which im guessing it would be as there would be less to deal with when it comes to the Gearbox. dose all the suspension in the front end come out with it?

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted

I once lifted the whole front of a GTR I had with the engine crane and slid the motor/subframe/gearbox assembly under it on the jack and bolted it up lol.

Its do-able either way but you prob wanna take it out the top way if you dont need to remove the box.

marksuxass Collaborator

marksuxass

Posted
Posted

I pulled mine out through the top. Manifolds and turbos can stay on. Took me about half/to and hour to take it out, but i already had the box out. I had trouble with the RHF drive shaft and couldnt get it to pop out of the diff. Ended up cutting the inner CV boot clamps on that side, popping out the circlip and removing the shaft from the CV housing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...