Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 165
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Wastegate has been machined and a bogger disc fitted by :)

It is te stave 2 Sierra now that I think of it. Had a dumb moment...

They are 1980s. :whistling: we only put in 2010 stuff.

Yes, but what specs?

I know that Stao will usually push for a 3076 core

Not exactly a 3076 core, more of custom core made to pump more, That’s for skylines. stegea is all different and more work.

They are 1980s. :whistling: we only put in 2010 stuff.

Not exactly a 3076 core, more of custom core made to pump more, That’s for skylines. stegea is all different and more work.

Can you elaborate on the issues experienced with the oil banjo? Was it an issue with the spotfacing for the sealing washers or something else? One off event?

Also feel free to elaborate about the detail of the turbo, ie; response in comparison to standard, projected potential output, any possible downside?

Not expecting trade secrets, just curious.

Cheers, Dale

They are 1980s. :whistling: we only put in 2010 stuff.

lol

Not exactly a 3076 core, more of custom core made to pump more, That’s for skylines. stegea is all different and more work.

RB engines Stageas have the same turbos as R33/34 skylines possibly with a slight change to the oil drain angle. I guess you are referring to M35's.

lol

RB engines Stageas have the same turbos as R33/34 skylines possibly with a slight change to the oil drain angle. I guess you are referring to M35's.

yeh was done for one of the m35 guys matethumbsup.gif

Can you elaborate on the issues experienced with the oil banjo? Was it an issue with the spotfacing for the sealing washers or something else? One off event?

Also feel free to elaborate about the detail of the turbo, ie; response in comparison to standard, projected potential output, any possible downside?

Not expecting trade secrets, just curious.

Cheers, Dale

factory run M12 banjo fittings, they are likely to leak on diy. Oil feeding line we sale with our turbos run speed flow fittings: a flared fitting in a 90 degrees hose tail, you gota install it before putting the turbo on to manifold. that won't leak unless incorrect size washers, its a better technology in hydraulic hosing. How ever if that causes issues in the stegeas then I will go back to benjos.

Turbo design Vs stock turbo obviously not as responsive (can be with the SS-1) as it is bigger, but no flat spots, pulls all the way to red, very good to drive.

Also extremely important to run 3inch metal intake pipes with pod filter. Turbo won't perform and will run wired on dyno with stock rubber pipe, as it will suck it self partially or fully shut under load.

They are 1980s. :whistling: we only put in 2010 stuff.

Not exactly a 3076 core, more of custom core made to pump more, That’s for skylines. stegea is all different and more work.

Lol, but that 1980's tech is pulling the numbers too, what have your wheels proven themselves to in the M35? I feel that size core will make the car run like a slug unless many more mods are done as these cars limit the throttle in so many areas. Have you driven one before and after?

The main issue we have is the turbo is wedged in a tight spot and gets very hot. Have you replaced an M35 turbo yet Stao? The oil line is the hardest part to get to and cant be tested until the job is finished. As "old" as the banjo bolt design is, it never leaks if you replace the copper washers and the steel line can handle the heat much better than any teflon braided hose. Why reinvent the wheel if you dont have to? Cant you just run the skyline CHRA like all the other turbo builders?

The intake isnt as easy to replace as you think either...

Lol, but that 1980's tech is pulling the numbers too, what have your wheels proven themselves to in the M35? I feel that size core will make the car run like a slug unless many more mods are done as these cars limit the throttle in so many areas. Have you driven one before and after?

The main issue we have is the turbo is wedged in a tight spot and gets very hot. Have you replaced an M35 turbo yet Stao? The oil line is the hardest part to get to and cant be tested until the job is finished. As "old" as the banjo bolt design is, it never leaks if you replace the copper washers and the steel line can handle the heat much better than any teflon braided hose. Why reinvent the wheel if you dont have to? Cant you just run the skyline CHRA like all the other turbo builders?

The intake isnt as easy to replace as you think either...

Agree... except I'm sure that a better wheel design would be an improvement over the 1980's tech.

Agree 11tybillion on the oil lines!

I always have this feeling that Stao is referring to the RB powered Stagea's whenever he says "Stagea".

Edited by iamhe77

Lol, but that 1980's tech is pulling the numbers too, what have your wheels proven themselves to in the M35? I feel that size core will make the car run like a slug unless many more mods are done as these cars limit the throttle in so many areas. Have you driven one before and after?

The main issue we have is the turbo is wedged in a tight spot and gets very hot. Have you replaced an M35 turbo yet Stao? The oil line is the hardest part to get to and cant be tested until the job is finished. As "old" as the banjo bolt design is, it never leaks if you replace the copper washers and the steel line can handle the heat much better than any teflon braided hose. Why reinvent the wheel if you dont have to? Cant you just run the skyline CHRA like all the other turbo builders?

The intake isnt as easy to replace as you think either...

Well I've referring to RB25 powered Stegeas.

We used 1980 cosworth wheels 4 years ago, they worked "alright" did not pull enough power nor mid range. Its not just the size, its the overall layout of the wheel. Our current wheels flows more, makes more power without flat spots, better torque, and within same better response range.

Its not about the thing " makes the No.s " its about how the numbers are delivered.

Skyline has the majority of market with a very good testing plate form. If the new wheels profile makes more power every where on a rb25 skyline, (I have lots of result to prove that) Then rb25 steaga makes no differences.

Stock oil line don’t supply enough oil, and could be clogged with years carbon deposits. Might be the reason for your stock turbo's death. That’s the only reason I want them changed.

Why reinvent the wheel if you don’t have to? Cant you just run the skyline CHRA like all the other turbo builders?

I don't understand what the argument is. Why should we avoid superior technology today and use stuff 30 years old. I choice modern technology that delivers more and better, I don't expect my customers to live up in the past.

Woah woah,

Since when did my thread become a hypergear bashing thread?

I've had 4 turbos rebuilt by hypergear in the past, and all of those 4 are still pumpIng away on my previous 300zx and another few cars.

The only issue with this rebuild was the banjo supplied wouldn't seat properly as the thread into the braided line fouled on the oil feed mounting plate. That and the only copper washers I could find were imperial (read just over/undersized). We decided to mod the plate as I needed the car on the road - but on second thought I can 99% garauntee it was the copper washers not sealing properly.

The turbo is actually done quite well, even Craig mentioned that.

Stao - maybe for the next customer you could supple a 90 degree bend banjo for the turbo side oil feed.

Like I've said before, next time I'd go engine out and precision rebuild purely because there's more people doing them on the forums.

Given that the hypergear is almost $400 cheaper - you can get an a/m dump from Scotty and a highflowed turbo with modified actuator if it's just a daily driver for the same price as just a turbo rebuild.

That being said, when the cars back on the road I'll do a full write up so you can see the results. It had already started losing traction in the 5 min drive we had before we pulled it out again..

Sean

factory run M12 banjo fittings, they are likely to leak on diy. Oil feeding line we sale with our turbos run speed flow fittings: a flared fitting in a 90 degrees hose tail, you gota install it before putting the turbo on to manifold. that won't leak unless incorrect size washers, its a better technology in hydraulic hosing. How ever if that causes issues in the stegeas then I will go back to benjos.

I don't understand your comments about leaking if DIY..?

The person who did this install has installed and more turbo's and removed more engines from M35 Stagea's than anyone else in Australia. He has actually taught dealers how to half the time in doing a turbo swap. (Engine out)

I believe the oil leak in this case was due to the fittings supplied not clearing the brackets of the turbo and fouling. I am not sure the DIY reference has anything to do with this scenario.

Cheers

Andy

Success!

After a mammoth effort, Craig and I finally got the bastard in (again) after having the oil feed plate resurfaced and sealed with the correct sized copper washers - and it's not leaking oil anymore!

I'm now 100% sure that it was incorrectly sized washers as to why it was leaking the first time we got it back in. In future I won't try using imperial sized washers on a metric sized banjo... :domokun:

Now I just have to bleed the damn cooling system - had a scare on the test drive where the temperature shot up then came back down before going up again... Obviously an air bubble, so will hopefully bleed that out tomorrow and go for a few drives.

All in all - I'd recommend the Hypergear highflow for a daily driver if you're not chasing numbers - just bear in mind that the Banjo fitting may foul on the oil feed adaptor plate and will either require a new fitting or the housing modified like mine. I'll speak to Stao and hopefully he can provide the correct fitting for future customers. The response is slightly laggier, but makes great midrange and holds through to the top end. Induction noise is also a fair bit quieter than my last turbo (albeit most likely on it's last legs when I bought the car) and coupled with the dump pipe and modified actuator it hauls a fair bit more ass than before. That and it's $400.00 minimum cheaper than the next available rebuild option that I know of means you can get the extra parts for the same price as another rebuild.

I imagine an (awesome) Nismo, Impul or Emanage would be pretty damn quick with this setup too

Anyway, time to go clean the blood off my knuckles because I was stupid and decided to do it all engine-in...

Sean (that simple dude)

Edited by simply_mighty

So it flogs the pants off a CV8 Monaro, R33 GTST (albeit mostly stock) and a few other miscellaneous cars.

It's s bit slow getting onto boost but reels them in quick if they do get ahead. Gets to redline pretty fast in 1st and I've had the rear step out on me a fraction in the dry. :thumbsup:

Still impressed - but still trying to bleed this damn cooling system 100%

Sean

Edited by simply_mighty

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...