Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Currently paying $920 p.a.or $77 p.m to have the wagon comprehensively insured. That's with a $750 excess and insured to $12000. 60% n.c.b, clean driving record, Mrs uses the car 90% of the time, she's 33 and I'm 36. Is there a better deal around at the moment? This is with Famous Motor Insurance, looks like they've put up their excess too.Car is parked off street (5070) in a car port with garage door (i.e. 2 walls around the car, not 4).

Edited by webng
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/366908-s2-stagea-insurance/
Share on other sites

i'd be trying with shanons

if they ask about a car club say your a member of skylines australia and sound like an enthusiast

they are supposed to be really good but picky about who they insure

I depends a lot on what city you live in.

If you live in West Bumfark then premiums are much cheaper.

These threads often go around in circles unless you are comparing your rates, your modifications, your driving record/experience and location with someone in the same boat.

I am not saying this to have a go at anyone as we all want to pay less and get the same coverage for our insurance dollar but there is more in the price differences than meets the eye.

I'm with justcars paying $92 a month insured for $17,500,excess is $600 and "all" mods are covered.

I'm 35 with no claims.

i'm 21 on $107/month

not sure on my excess (would have to add the under 25 excess on tho)

sucks that they don't do windscreen cover, i want a new one :(

Im paying $650 per year through Justcar, im 35 with clean licence.value is $13500

same deal here, but 34 later this year. clean driving history no claims no accidents (and no infringments in past dozen yrs)

i'm 21 on $107/month

not sure on my excess (would have to add the under 25 excess on tho)

sucks that they don't do windscreen cover, i want a new one :(

Strange how they dont cover windscreens/windows.when they do panels etc

I depends a lot on what city you live in.

If you live in West Bumfark then premiums are much cheaper.

These threads often go around in circles unless you are comparing your rates, your modifications, your driving record/experience and location with someone in the same boat.

I am not saying this to have a go at anyone as we all want to pay less and get the same coverage for our insurance dollar but there is more in the price differences than meets the eye.

This man speaks the truth.

I'm inner Sydney, on street parking, only just Car would cover me and it made no difference to the price for on or off street. Shannons and Famous both knocked me back for no off street parking ( didn't care if it was alarmed. ) .

35, No accidents/claims for 15 years, last speeding ticket 2 years ago , agreed 15k, Premium 1,400 , excess 1100

So as you can see there are people with Just Cars with simliar age/driving record/agreed price but paying less and some more. It's all about the suburb/age/NCB. Shannons told me if I lived elsewhere they would accept on street.

Just Cars are AAMI, which I think means no choice of repairer?

I'm insured through a private mutual. $812/year, $500 excess, agreed value of $18,000, complete choice of repairer and any mods I want to do have to be listed as nonstandard accessories and must be road legal. I'm 26 with the car garaged in Adelaide.

^ yep. But it has to be cracked. They don't pay for chip repair, I dont know why you would bother anyway.

i got a small chip in mine when driving it home (1600km north) from Brisbane, got it repaired as soon as i got it back. after it was done could barely see it, now i can't find it even if i look for it, (i still remember roughly where it is) so IMO was worth the $40 i paid. They used some liquid/gel stuff that hardens once inside the crack, and wipe excess off while its wet. as i say no complaints and well worth it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...