Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

having an issue with my clutch, put a brand new slave and master cylinder in my 33. clutch was perfect for around 600klms and then is started picking up right near the floor and now i can't even get it into gear.

just wondering if anyone knows what to look for?

my first opinion was air in the system, not being bled properly, but then it lasted 600klms..

anyone knows how to troubleshoot would really appreciate it..

Shane

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367029-rb25det-clutch-drama/
Share on other sites

I would bleed the master and slave just to make sure there is no air in the system, or a leak. Did you replace the clutch line?

I know the master and slave are new but new doesnt always mean it will work. better off catching it now if thats what it is and claiming waranty. If you bleed everything and then its still the same then you probably have a clutch problem. If it works all good then gradually goes away again then you have a problem somewhere between your pedal and the clutch fork. Fork is moving, but may not be moving through the full motion

Well it sounds like your clutch hasnt started slipping, sounds like theres not enough travel to engage the pressure plate to disengage the clutch

so in that case.... some sort of pivot ball issue? I'm not sure what happens when the pivot ball fails, I know it leads to clutch issues. You could maybe grab a torch and pull the rubber boot for the fork aside and see if theres anything obvious. But I'm not sure how much you will see. How much travel does the slave have?

Did you adjust the freeplay in the clutch pushrod?

You may also have cracked the pivot on the thrust fork so that it will open up when the pedal is depressed, reducing the ability of the thrust bearing to properly disengage the clutch.

Well it sounds like your clutch hasnt started slipping, sounds like theres not enough travel to engage the pressure plate to disengage the clutch

so in that case.... some sort of pivot ball issue? I'm not sure what happens when the pivot ball fails, I know it leads to clutch issues. You could maybe grab a torch and pull the rubber boot for the fork aside and see if theres anything obvious. But I'm not sure how much you will see. How much travel does the slave have?

When you snap the pivot, the pedal will go to the floor and not come back up without help. Had to drive home like it was an 18spd road ranger box :laugh:

Yeah i had that happen to me recently and my clutch had only done about the same km's.. brand new.

I checked the pivot/fork, new slave+master.. everything appeared to be fine, so last weekend with a couple mates off came the box..

only to find that the pressure plate bolts where not done up, well i lie, 3 where.. 6 wherent.. so the plate was sitting on the piss...

Tightened them up and box back on, bam! no problems ;)

Who did ur clutch?

Yeah i had that happen to me recently and my clutch had only done about the same km's.. brand new.

I checked the pivot/fork, new slave+master.. everything appeared to be fine, so last weekend with a couple mates off came the box..

only to find that the pressure plate bolts where not done up, well i lie, 3 where.. 6 wherent.. so the plate was sitting on the piss...

Tightened them up and box back on, bam! no problems ;)

Who did ur clutch?

What the hell! Who did your clutch??

When you snap the pivot, the pedal will go to the floor and not come back up without help. Had to drive home like it was an 18spd road ranger box :laugh:

I should have known that lol...... Now that you've said it I feel like an Idiot for not remembering haha

I put some lube on mine when I put my box back in last time, no more squeaking, and the clutch feels a bit nicer :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...